2025 O'Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling, Clare Valley

This exceptional wine from an exceptional vintage shows a clear distinction between it and the Watervale version from the same year. This one sort of moves into more floral bath salts characters while retaining that perfume floral note that is typical of the region. There’s a wet, pebbly, crunchy feel here with the citrus notes evident throughout. There’s even a little of that musk lolly character that we might have had as kids, but is subtle and understated. This is complex and superbly presented. One of the finest yet under this label.

96 points Ray Jordan winepilot.com

Crackling and energetic, a cavalcade of citrus fruits with a distinct Japanese citrus fruit bent. Texture almost sits in that crystalline zone but for the light juiciness that emerges with time in the glass. A bit of curious lanolin character in here, a green wood sap tone, a kind of pretty, rosehip note, some frangipani in the mix, too. Quite high-toned here. It feels a little diffuse in its personality right now, a bit pale, so do give it time to flesh out and settle a bit to see further enhancement.

92 points Mike Bennie winecompanion.com.au

The O’Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling from the Clare Valley is a beautifully contrasting sibling to the estate’s Watervale release, showing the darker, more austere and mineral-driven side of Clare Riesling. Winemakers Nick Walker and David O’Leary are both Clare Valley specialists, and since founding O’Leary Walker in 2000 they have focused on expressing the individuality of the region’s finest subregions. Polish Hill, with its poorer, slate-rich soils and higher elevation, produces Rieslings that are taut, powerful and structured, built as much for longevity as for immediate enjoyment.

The fruit comes from low-yielding vineyards on rocky blue slate and shale soils, which force the vines to work harder and naturally restrict vigour. This results in smaller berries with intense concentration. Winemaking is minimalistic: gentle pressing, cool fermentation in stainless steel, and no oak influence, ensuring the vineyard’s personality shines through with absolute clarity.

In the glass it is pale straw with a green glimmer. The bouquet is more restrained than Watervale, showing citrus blossom, lime zest, grapefruit and green apple, alongside subtle notes of wet slate, bath salts and crushed rock. The palate is razor-sharp, with tightly wound citrus and mineral flavours framed by bracing acidity and a fine, chalky texture. It is more linear and tense than the Watervale, carrying through to a long, dry, crystalline finish.

Food pairings emphasise its precision and minerality: natural oysters, sashimi, grilled white fish with lemon, or lightly spiced Asian dishes such as Vietnamese squid salad or Thai green curry. Goat’s cheese is also a perfect match. With 15 to 20 years of cellaring potential, the wine blossoms into something profound, gaining layers of honey, toast, lanolin and spice while retaining its fine backbone of citrus and minerality.