2025 Paxton Pinot Gris, McLaren Vale

David Paxton is one of McLaren Vale's most respected viticulturalists with a career built not on winemaking but on growing exceptional fruit. His vineyards have been certified organic and biodynamic since 2011.

Winemaker Ashleigh Seymour came to Paxton after a decade of immersion in biodynamic thinking in Italy. This influenced not just her view on farming but the way she approaches life and the rhythm of the seasons. Her approach is to guide the wine rather than direct: getting it right in the vineyard first, then keeping the wine under wraps as it finds its own way. It's a natural fit for a producer whose reputation was built on viticulture, long before it was built on winemaking.

The fruit for this Pinot Gris comes from the cooler Thomas Block on McLaren Flat. Fruit is hand-picked at optimum flavour ripeness, then whole bunch and berry pressed without crushing or destemming, preserving the delicate aromatics the variety is known for. Cold fermentation in stainless steel at low temperatures locks in freshness, and the wine is bottled early to keep everything bright and precise.

Kaffir lime, lemon myrtle and almond blossom on the nose, with a hint of ripe pear adding some weight. The palate is refreshing and medium-bodied with a soft viscosity through the mid-palate and a clean, lively finish with good length. Dry and food-friendly rather than sweetly fruited.

A wine to open before dinner is ready. Salt and pepper squid with a wedge of lemon, or a Thai green papaya salad with grilled prawns. The wine's citrus brightness and gentle texture are easy company for anything fresh and lightly spiced.

Drink now.