2025 Terre a Terre Crayeres Sauvignon Blanc, Wrattonbully

From the Les Crayères Vineyard in Wrattonbully, this is a high density vineyard. The 2025 vintage was warmer and drier than average and we are seeing wines of generosity. Fermentation here was mostly in old oak barrels with 38% in stainless steel. 1,760 six-packs made. The colour is a very pale lemon/straw. On the nose we have an intriguing mix of herbals and tropicals and there is a touch of apple. Quite a forceful style, not lacking in flavour, the wine is of medium to good length and has a line of fine acidity. Flavour just rolls along in waves. Enjoy the next two to four years.

92 points Ken Gargett Wine Pilot

Terre à Terre is the project of Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser — he from a winemaking family in Champagne, she the daughter of Brian Croser of Tapanappa. Together they planted the Crayères Vineyard in Wrattonbully in 2004 and have spent two decades learning what this extraordinary site can do.

The Crayères Vineyard sits on a 35-million-year-old limestone ridge in Wrattonbully, a region on the Limestone Coast that remains one of Australia's most underappreciated fine wine areas. The soils are pure terra rossa over ancient limestone, the same geology that makes Coonawarra famous, expressed here with its own distinct character. When the vineyard was planted, a network of chalk caves was discovered beneath it, reminiscent of the crayères of Champagne. The Sauvignon Blanc is planted at the closest vine spacing of any in Australia, with a fruiting wire just 50cm from the ground — an uncompromisingly European approach to growing for quality over yield.

The style has little in common with the bright, grassy Sauvignon Blancs most people know. The best parcels are whole bunch pressed to seasoned oak, no malolactic fermentation, eight months on full lees — textural, layered and structured, closer in spirit to fine white Bordeaux than anything from Marlborough. The 2023 vintage won Halliday Sauvignon Blanc of the Year, the third time the Crayères has taken the award.

Pale lemon with green highlights, the nose is complex and detailed — passionfruit, almond husk, citrus pith, fresh asparagus and spring blossom. The palate is taut and textural with generous fruit, persistent acidity and a long savoury finish. A wine that rewards patience as much as it rewards opening tonight.

Grilled scallops, crab, a fine seafood risotto, dumplings with prawn and chives: fresh high quality seafood prepared in a simple manner.

Drink now through 2032.