2025 Thistledown Gorgeous Grenache Blanc, McLaren Vale

Oxidative handling, then native ferment in older oak and concrete egg; four months on lees. This is lifted and intensely aromatic, with makrut lime, nashi, custard apple, chilled smashed cucumber, apple blossom, Meyer lemon and rambutan. It’s lighter in weight, without the blowsy texture the grape can have; instead, it’s got good vigour and fruitful vibrancy, a faint pithiness adding palate detail. This can take a good chill while retaining its flavour, which ups the already considerable refreshment factor.

92 points Special Value Marcus Ellis Halliday Wine Companion

Thistledown has built a cult following for rethinking what McLaren Vale can do, and this Grenache Blanc is a perfect example. Founded by UK Master of Wine Giles Cooke alongside Fergal Tynan, the focus has always been on old vineyards, thoughtful farming and a lighter, more detailed winemaking approach. While they are best known for Grenache, this white counterpart shows the same philosophy through a different lens.

Grenache Blanc thrives in Mediterranean climates, and McLaren Vale’s mix of sunshine, sea breezes and varied soils allows it to ripen fully while still holding freshness. Thistledown leans toward picking at the right moment to preserve energy, often working with texture and subtle complexity rather than overt weight.

Pale straw with a soft green hue, the aromatics are gently expressive. Pear, white peach and citrus peel sit alongside almond, fennel and a faint herbal lift. There is a quiet savoury edge that hints at what’s to come.

The palate is where it really opens up. Stone fruit and citrus glide across a textural, almost waxy frame, balanced by a line of freshness that keeps everything in check. Lees work adds a soft creaminess, while a subtle grip and mineral thread bring length and interest. It feels layered without ever becoming heavy, a wine that sits comfortably between richness and restraint.

This is a natural partner for food that plays with texture and flavour. Grilled fish with olive oil and herbs, roast chicken with fennel, or dishes built around white beans and slow cooked vegetables all work beautifully. It also handles dishes with a touch of spice or warmth, where its texture and freshness find balance.

Drinking beautifully now, though it will evolve over five to eight years, gaining more nutty, savoury complexity.

There is a quiet confidence here, a wine that reflects both the warmth of McLaren Vale and a modern, thoughtful approach to winemaking, best enjoyed over a long lunch with plenty on the table.

If you want something to match the feel, put on Khruangbin Friday Morning, or for a bit more lift, Paul Simon Graceland, both carry that relaxed, sunlit energy this wine brings.