2025 Wirra Wirra The Lost Watch Riesling, Adelaide Hills

The cuvée name always puts me in mind of a lost patrol of Roman centurions, but it refers to Greg Trott’s missing timepiece, which was apparently the cause of his pathological lateness. With lime and grapefruit pith, it’s tangy and vigorous, like biting on a lemon wedge retrieved from a gin and soda, along with wet slate, green apple, a glint of steel and a suggestion of jasmine. Dry and classic yet with enough flesh to avoid austerity. A nice release.

91 points Special Value Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion, March 2026

More about this wine

Lobethal fruit, selectively handpicked, destemmed, crushed and chilled to a membrane press, with the free run and pressings juices separated and only the free run component used for The Lost Watch. The juice was racked away from solids before tank fermentation at cool temperatures, with a miniscule amount of residual sugar preserved to balance the natural acidity. The wine was stabilised, filtered and bottled early to capture freshness and fruit expression.

About Wirra Wirra

Wirra Wirra was established in 1894 by Robert Strangways Wigley. Having fallen into disrepair after his death in 1926, it was resurrected by Greg Trott, who with his cousin along with his cousin Roger Trott bought the property in 1969. They restored the historic ironstone cellars and revived what is now one of Australia’s most loved names in wine.

The Wirra Wirra team passes by a large slate installation as they enter the winery, inscribed by Greg’s mantra: Never give misery an even break, nor bad wine a second sip. You must be serious about quality, dedicated to your task in life, especially winemaking, but this should all be fun.

Today, the much-enlarged estate vineyards across McLaren Vale are complemented by fruit from long-term growers in the Adelaide Hills, with vineyard work managed by a team lead by viticulturist Anton Groffen. The original estate vineyards around the winery, as well as those the team manages, are certified organic and biodynamic.

The women rule back at the winery, with chief winemaker Emma Wood working closely with Kelly Wellington and Grace Wang. Each wine in the Wirra Wirra portfolio has a defined style but with allowance for vintage variation. The stylistic thread across the wines is a balance of generosity and elegance.