2026 Clonakilla Riesling, Canberra District

Riesling was the first white variety planted at Clonakilla, back in 1971 by John Kirk, the father of Tim Kirk, the current winemaker. It is still going strong. The grapes are handpicked and whole bunch pressed, before racking for fermentation. Tim has indicated that the fruit came in, in near perfect condition, despite it being a rather challenging year. Whilst some winemakers are a little like politicians, Tim is definitely one you can believe, even if he is based in Canberra. If he claims it was perfect, then perfect it was. This is a magic Riesling, surely one of his best. I have long been a big fan of the Clonakilla Rieslings, but this one surely exceeds all expectations. A wine of the palest lemon/lime hue, the nose is delightfully full of citrus and spices, especially an appealing lime sherbet note. This is supported by hints of river pebbles, honeysuckle, wet slate and ginger. The wine is clean, inevitably youthful, delightfully fresh with bright acidity and great length. Strike that and make it incredible length. This Riesling can sit with the best made anywhere in Australia. A twenty-year proposition.

97 points Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot

Clonakilla is one of the great names of the Canberra District, founded by John Kirk in 1971 at Murrumbateman and now led by his son Tim Kirk. While Shiraz Viognier may have brought the estate international fame, the Riesling has long been one of its quiet stars. The cool, elevated Canberra landscape gives the variety exactly what it needs: a long ripening season, piercing natural acidity and wonderfully expressive citrus aromatics.

The 2026 comes from vineyards around Murrumbateman, where altitude, cool nights and decomposed granite soils help shape a particularly fine, dry style of Riesling. Young Clonakilla Riesling is all about energy and clarity, but there is enough concentration and acid structure underneath to reward patience. With bottle age, those pristine citrus flavours should gradually move towards toast, honey and preserved lemon.

Very pale straw with flashes of green, the bouquet leaps from the glass with lime zest, green apple and lemon blossom, followed by grapefruit, white flowers and a touch of green mango. The palate is wonderfully brisk and mouthwatering, with lime and lemon driving through the centre, joined by grapefruit pith and crisp apple. Fine acidity gives the wine its spine, while a subtle stony texture carries the citrus into a long, dry finish.

Oysters with finger lime would be cracking, alongside prawn and chive dumplings, Vietnamese turmeric fish with dill, salt and pepper squid or steamed snapper with ginger and spring onion. Our pick is the turmeric fish. Sweet fish, aromatic dill and ginger against that electric citrus acidity should make both the food and the Riesling disappear rather quickly.

Cellaring: Drink now for its youthful citrus drive or cellar to 2038.