Devaux Ultra D, Champagne

Deavaux purposely avoids a zero-dosage cuvee, favouring a dosage of 2g/L to provide better balance and persistence to finish. The result is more taut, metallic and coiled than the equivalent La Cuvee, accenting lemon zest on a firmer and more aggressive finish. A searing champagne for the brave, while the rest of us can save a few pennies and bask in the comfortable territory of La Cuvee’(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; 8 g/l dosage): Bright yellow-gold. Ripe orange, poached pear and vanilla on the deeply perfumed nose. Fleshy and open-knit, offering pliant orchard and pit fruit flavors braced and lifted by juicy acidity. At once rich and lively, with the vanilla note repeating on the smooth, toasty finish. Just over one-third of this blend is barrel-fermented reserve wine.

94 points Tyson Stelzer