Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru, Champagne

Vintages: 2019 (50%), 2018 (30%), 2017 (20%)

Bottling: 2020

Disgorgement: July 2023

Time on lees: 36 months

As always, this is 100% Meunier from a single 40-year-old, south-facing vineyard in Vrigny, a commune located on the Petite Montagne de Reims, next to Gueux, where Jérôme Prévost is based. Straight Meunier remains a relative rarity in Champagne; in Egly’s hands, it is something truly unique. Low yields, old vines and ripe fruit make this one of the most intense, layered and opulent Meunier wines kicking around. Bottled without filtration, the dosage for this bottling was a tiny two grams per litre. Taking in three great vintages for this grower, this is at least equal to last year’s wine (itself the best young Vignes de Vrigny we have tasted). This is layered, fleshy and spicy; remarkably hedonistic for Meunier yet also with wonderful brightness and saline freshness. It’s an exceptional rendition of this cuvée as you would expect from the vintages involved.