Equipo Navazos La Bota 118 Palo Cortado Pata de Gallina 500 ml, Jerez

Complex nose with burned brown sugar, ash, dark honey, vanilla and black walnuts. Round and full-bodied with a phenolic touch to the endless finish that goes on for two minutes. 20.5% alcohol. Drink now.

96 points Zekun Shuai, James Suckling

A powerful yet extremely elegant Palo Cortado, sourced from oxidatively aged wines (essentially fino where the flor has died early, so the wine is fortified). This is a wine of remarkable finesse and expressiveness, with a very complex nose blending amontillado and oloroso aromas. Its origin lies in a selection made thirteen years ago among the finest casks of oxidative wine owned by Almacenista Juan García Jarana. Three releases preceded it: La Bota de Palo Cortado 34 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2012; La Bota de Palo Cortado 72 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2017; and La Bota de Palo Cortado 92 "Pata de Gallina," bottled in 2019. This marks the fourth saca from this small solera, locally called an "altarillo," or little altar, belonging to Equipo Navazos and held at Fernando de Castilla.

Few producers have done more to rekindle interest in the extraordinary old wines of Andalusia than Equipo Navazos. Founded in 2005 by Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda, the project began with a search for exceptional casks ageing quietly in historic bodegas. Their numbered La Bota bottlings have since become highly prized by collectors and adventurous wine lovers. La Bota No. 118 is a particularly distinguished Palo Cortado, carrying the evocative name Pata de Gallina, a traditional designation associated with certain especially characterful wines from Jerez.

The wine comes from the celebrated Pata de Gallina solera at Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla in Jerez, where long ageing has developed remarkable concentration and complexity. Palo Cortado is one of the most intriguing styles of sherry, combining the aromatic delicacy associated with Amontillado and the fuller, more rounded structure of Oloroso. Made from Palomino Fino, this selection has undergone extensive oxidative maturation, developing the deep savoury character and remarkable persistence that distinguish great old sherry. The 500ml format is ideal for a wine best appreciated slowly over several occasions.

Deep amber with copper and mahogany reflections. Toasted walnut, hazelnut and bitter orange lead the aromas, followed by tobacco leaf, polished wood and dried fig. Notes of caramelised citrus peel, leather, spice and a delicate suggestion of roasted coffee emerge with air. The palate is completely dry, rich and beautifully concentrated, with roasted nuts, orange peel and savoury spice carried by a firm, almost saline structure. There is an appealing tension between its rounded texture and penetrating freshness, while walnut skin, dark tobacco and subtle rancio notes linger through an exceptionally long finish.

Aged Manchego, Jamón Ibérico and toasted Marcona almonds are classic companions, but there is plenty of scope to explore. Wild mushroom croquettes, grilled prawns with garlic, roast cauliflower with brown butter or a rich porcini risotto would all complement its savoury depth. It is also magnificent enjoyed slowly after dinner, particularly with a small plate of mature hard cheeses. Serve lightly chilled in a proper wine glass and allow it time to reveal its remarkable complexity.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2040+. Extended oxidative ageing gives this Palo Cortado considerable stability, although there is little need to delay enjoying it. Once opened, reseal and refrigerate, with the wine remaining enjoyable for several weeks.