Equipo Navazos La Bota 120 Manzanilla Pasada Botas NO 500ml, Jerez

The NV La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada 120 Botas NO is the most recent bottling of this mythical wine, in this case the result of combining the “Bota Punta” with two outstanding casks of the 1/15 solera. This is an extraordinary Manzanilla of character, complexity and depth, with 14 years of average age, matured under flor for 10 years (and in a more oxidative way the last four to five years) in topped-up barrels. So, it's a little in the way of turning into an Amontillado but keeping the biological and saline character of the Manzanilla. I tasted from an opened bottle, and the wine had closed down and took some time to open up. The nose is impressive, for the first time with some Amontillado hints, mainly hazelnuts and a little varnish. It has concentration and depth, persistence and pungency. It's approachable and has the stuffing and balance to age nicely. 3,000 half-litre bottles produced. It was bottled in 2023.

97+ points, Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

The result of combining "Bota Punta" with two other outstanding casks from the 1/15 solera, source of every "Bota Punta" and "Bota NO" edition since No. 20. This 120th La Bota edition continues the tradition, in place since No. 10 in 2008, of editions ending in zero being Manzanilla Pasada from Misericordia, in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. This is a very special wine, balancing finesse and chalky minerality with roasted nuts and dried fruit notes marking the start of "amontillamiento", bordering on Manzanilla Amontillada in style. Its distinctive character comes from butts filled to "a tocadedos" level, well above the usual 5/6 mark, leaving a thinner, more fragile layer of flor. This shows through in elevated oxidative notes and alcohol now above 16%.

The remarkable wines of Equipo Navazos began with a simple idea: seek out the most extraordinary casks ageing in the old bodegas of Andalusia and bottle them with as little interference as possible. Founded in 2005 by Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda, the project has transformed the reputation of traditional sherry, introducing wine lovers to rare selections that might otherwise have remained hidden in the solera. La Bota No. 120 is an especially intriguing Manzanilla Pasada, drawn from exceptional old casks and bottled in a 500ml format that seems just right for something this distinctive.

Manzanilla comes from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the Atlantic climate encourages the development of flor, the protective yeast layer responsible for its unmistakable freshness and savoury character. Manzanilla Pasada is a more mature expression, having spent extended time under flor before beginning to develop subtle oxidative complexity. The designation Botas NO identifies particularly old and characterful casks, selected for their remarkable depth and individuality. The result is a wine that retains the salty, delicate personality of Manzanilla while developing the richness, nuttiness and complexity associated with long maturation.

Deep golden straw with amber highlights. Toasted almond, dried chamomile and preserved lemon lead the aromas, followed by green olive, sea spray and freshly baked sourdough. Hints of hazelnut, orange peel and dried herbs emerge with air. The palate is bone dry and intensely savoury, with roasted nuts, citrus zest and a pronounced saline character carried by remarkable freshness. There is a lovely tension between the wine's mature, almost Amontillado like complexity and the lively, penetrating character of its Manzanilla origins. Bitter almond, chalk and subtle spice linger through an exceptionally long finish.

Fresh oysters, grilled prawns with garlic, anchovies on good sourdough or salt cod croquettes would all be wonderful companions. Jamón Ibérico, aged Manchego and toasted Marcona almonds are equally convincing, while mushrooms sautéed with garlic and parsley would highlight its savoury depth. Serve lightly chilled in a generous wine glass and allow it time to reveal its many fascinating details.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035+. Although its maturity provides some stability, the delicate flor derived character is particularly appealing while fresh. Once opened, refrigerate and enjoy over the following week or two.