Equipo Navazos La Bota 121 Palo Cortado, Jerez

Complex and intense nose with hints of rancio, sourdough yeast, sultanas, walnuts, saffron and salted toffee. Creamy and round on the palate with lots of almonds and a finish that seems never-ending. Good integration of alcohol here. Saca April, 2023. Drink now.

95 points Zekun Shuai, James Suckling

The fourth release, following editions 52, 75 and 102, of a groundbreaking approach to the palo cortado style, the result of decades of work by Eduardo Ojeda and his team. Despite its relative youth, it honours the smoothness, purity and complexity that the category demands. But it's also a single-vineyard, vintage-dated wine, sourced from 2010 musts harvested in the legendary Pago Miraflores La Baja, Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The vines are 50 to 80 years old, and also gift the fruit that makes La Bota de Florpower. Aged in Sherry butts and barriques filled almost to the top to limit oxidation, this saca comes from the same barrels as edition No. 75. Fundamentally oxidative, with only slight biological ageing before fortification to 17.5% alc., this carries the typical saline minerality of Sanlúcar's coastal vineyards yet with an otherworldly complexity.

There is something wonderfully obsessive about the work of Equipo Navazos. Founded in 2005 by Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda, the project began with a fascination for the exceptional wines hidden away in the old bodegas of Andalusia. Rather than creating conventional blends, they select individual casks and small parcels that reveal the extraordinary diversity of traditional Spanish wines. Their numbered La Bota releases have become highly sought after, and No. 121 continues that tradition with a beautifully mature Palo Cortado from Jerez, a style prized for its rare combination of finesse and depth.

Made from Palomino Fino, Palo Cortado occupies a fascinating position between Amontillado and Oloroso. It has the aromatic refinement and lifted character associated with Amontillado, alongside the fuller body and rounded texture of Oloroso. Extended oxidative ageing develops remarkable savoury complexity, with the influence of old oak and years in the solera contributing richness without sweetness. La Bota 121 captures this distinctive personality, combining concentration and mature character with the freshness that makes great dry sherry so compelling.

Deep amber with copper and mahogany highlights. Toasted walnut, hazelnut and bitter orange mingle with dried apricot, tobacco leaf and polished wood. Hints of leather, clove, roasted coffee and a little sea salt emerge as the wine opens. The palate is completely dry, beautifully concentrated and wonderfully savoury, with roasted nuts, citrus peel and subtle spice supported by a firm, saline freshness. There is an appealing richness to the texture, but also a penetrating, almost mineral quality that keeps everything lively. The finish is exceptionally long, carrying walnut skin, orange zest and delicate rancio notes.

Jamón Ibérico, aged Manchego and toasted Marcona almonds would be natural companions, although the possibilities extend well beyond traditional tapas. Wild mushroom croquettes, grilled prawns with garlic, roast cauliflower with brown butter or a rich porcini risotto would all suit its savoury character. It is also a magnificent wine to enjoy slowly after dinner, when there is time to appreciate its extraordinary detail. Serve lightly chilled in a generous wine glass rather than a tiny sherry glass.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2040+. Its extended oxidative ageing provides excellent stability, although it is already beautifully mature. Once opened, reseal and refrigerate, enjoying over the following several weeks.