Equipo Navazos La Bota 85 Fino Amontillado, Montilla-Moriles

The extraordinary NV La Bota de Fino 85 “Un fino que va para amontillado…” is not a wine from Jerez but from Montilla-Moriles in the province of Cordova, an appellation where the majority of vines are Pedro Ximénez and the wines produced are similar to Jerez wines. In fact, Amontillado means "in the style of Montilla," because the style originated there. This wine, from the same origin as edition 45 (and 24) that would be called Fino Amontillado if it wasn't forbidden, has taken biological aging under flor to an extreme, and the wine has started its oxidative aging on its way to becoming an Amontillado. So, it has the saline complexity of the flor and the incipient notes of nuts and varnish. The grapes are picked extremely late, and this was never fortified. This has great finesse and can stand up to a lot of Palomino wines. It didn't show any rusticity and was more about finesse. It's from the same solera as the two previous bottlings, but this was somehow more biological, less concentrated or less oxidative. It might have a little more precision. As the wine sat in the glass and warmed up, the palate took off and revealed an unusual combination of power and elegance. This is really surprising and very good. 2,800 bottles were filled in December 2018.

96+ points Luis Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

This is an old, super complex Fino that is taking its first steps toward becoming an Amontillado. It's of a style traditionally labelled Fino-Amontillado by winemakers and connoisseurs, regardless of current legislation. Sourced from the oldest fino solera in Pérez Barquero's Bodega Los Amigos, in Montilla-Moriles, it was a saca selected from 15 butts (out of 63) that showed the classic character of this style. Estimated to be 12 to 14 years old, with telltale notes of early “amontillamiento" and evolution evident in the concentrated aromas and flavours. Still a true fino, in that it has been aged under a fragile, darkening layer of flor. It resembles Equipo Navazos' La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada while retaining its own distinctive personality. Taken from cask in October 2018 and bottled that December, unfined and virtually unfiltered, with 16% alcohol. Extremely low quantities!

Some of Spain's most extraordinary wines have spent decades quietly ageing in old Andalusian bodegas, waiting for someone to recognise just how special they are. That is precisely what Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda set out to do when they founded Equipo Navazos in 2005. Their numbered La Bota releases have since become cult favourites among lovers of traditional Spanish wines, celebrating exceptional individual casks and small selections rather than conventional house styles. La Bota No. 85 is a particularly fascinating Fino Amontillado from Montilla Moriles, capturing the delicate transition between two of Andalusia's most distinctive dry wine styles.

Made from Pedro Ximénez, the principal white grape of Montilla Moriles, this wine has developed its character through extended ageing beneath flor, the protective layer of yeast responsible for the distinctive savoury freshness of Fino. As that biological influence gradually diminishes, the wine begins to acquire the deeper, nuttier qualities associated with Amontillado. The result is a beautifully complex expression that retains the lively, saline personality of Fino while introducing the richness and aromatic detail of oxidative maturation. It is a style rarely encountered outside the region and one that rewards a little curiosity.

Brilliant deep gold with amber reflections. Toasted almond, hazelnut and dried chamomile lead the aromas, followed by preserved lemon, orange peel and green olive. Hints of sourdough, dried herbs and sea spray add a wonderfully savoury dimension. The palate is bone dry, concentrated and remarkably fresh, with roasted nuts, citrus peel and a delicate oxidative character supported by lively acidity. There is a lovely salty edge beneath the wine's richness, while bitter almond, chalk and subtle spice linger through a long, penetrating finish. A wine of tremendous personality, balancing delicacy with impressive depth.

Garlic prawns, grilled sardines, salt cod croquettes or calamari with lemon and parsley would all be excellent companions. Jamón Ibérico, aged Manchego and toasted Marcona almonds are equally convincing, while wild mushrooms sautéed with garlic and thyme would highlight its savoury character. Serve lightly chilled in a generous wine glass rather than a tiny sherry glass, allowing its extraordinary aromas room to develop.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035+. Its extended maturation provides good stability, although the wine's delicate biological character is particularly appealing while fresh. Once opened, refrigerate and enjoy over the following week or two.