Louis Roederer Collection 245, Champagne

The NV Collection 245 is another stellar Champagne from Roederer. Apricot, white flowers, spice, white pepper and tangerine oil all open in the glass. This is a more open-knit style from Roederer. The blend is 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 24% Meunier based in 2020, but with 35% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve of previous editions and 10% reserve wines in oak, meaning the base vintage is not particularly evident. Dosage is 7 grams per liter, but it feels a bit higher than that. Roederer remains one of the most dynamic houses in Champagne. This year Roederer is releasing ve vintages in their new Rosé Late Release program. These are original disgorgements but bottled with one gram less of dosage (8 grams per liter) than the original releases. That means that, at a minimum, the broad outline for this program was conceived thirty years ago, a reminder of the amount of time that is required in Champagne from conceptualization to commercial release.

92 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

This is the 245th blend of Roederer's non-vintage Champagne. It is a fine wine, highlighting the blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, bringing in reserve wines to give richness and balance. It is fresh, beginning to show signs of maturity, with an apple aroma and a ripe palate.

94 points wineenthusiast.com

The Collection series has opened a new chapter in Champagne’s illustrious history, and you can expect the other major houses to follow suit shortly. Responding to climate change, Louis Roederer has ceased production of its best-selling Brut Premier NV, replacing it with this new multi-vintage cuvée. When Brut Premier NV was first released in 1986, Louis Roederer was pressing for larger yields in a much cooler climate, when it was much harder to ripen grapes. Now that the globe is warming and there’s a shift towards more sustainable farming, they are “chasing freshness” and “the future will be organic and biodynamic”, according to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Cellar Master and Executive Vice President at Louis Roederer. So, gone is the tight, focused and nervy Brut Premier NV, replaced by a more expressive, more complex and more spicy modern style.

These come from young plots on the Cristal estate and the large French oak vats add more spice to the wine, rather like seasoning a dish. Secondly, the house established a Perpetual Reserve – an approach also employed by respected Grower Champagne houses, like Bérêche & Fils and Jacques Selosse. The Perpetual Reserve is a vast stainless-steel tank containing reductively aged (oxygen-free) older vintages that is continually topped up in the same way that Sherry producers use their solera system. Most producers will keep vintages separately in smaller tanks, where they lose freshness. This approach maintains the freshness, adding a chalky and saline character. And finally, the dosage (the sweetness added at the end to balance the wine) has been reduced, as the ripeness is already present.

Founded in 1776 and famed for being the producers of Cristal, Louis Roederer is one of the last major Champagne houses to still be independently family-run. It falls under the stewardship of the Rouzauds – one of the wine world’s most powerful families and owners of Domaines Ott, Champagne Deutz, Ramos Pinto Port, Merry Edwards and Diamond Creek in the USA, Maison Delas in the Rhône and Bordeaux’s iconic Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.