Louis Roederer Collection 247, Champagne

A big and rich Champagne with aromas of dried apples, peaches, mangoes, honey and a hint of flint. It's full-bodied with dried fruit and pie crust flavors and a fresh finish. Lots of green apples and limes at the end. Based on 2022. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

93 points James Suckling

Few Champagne houses combine history, independence and innovation quite like Louis Roederer. Family owned since 1776, the house has flourished under Frédéric Rouzaud and cellar master Jean Baptiste Lécaillon, whose meticulous approach to vineyards and blending has helped redefine contemporary Champagne. The Collection series replaced the much loved Brut Premier, with each numbered release celebrating the character of a particular harvest rather than following an unchanging recipe. Collection 247 is another compelling chapter in that story, combining freshness, generosity and the unmistakable Roederer house character.

Built around the 2022 harvest, Collection 247 draws on the house's extensive vineyard holdings across Champagne, complemented by wines from its perpetual reserve and oak aged reserve selections. Chardonnay provides finesse and citrus energy, Pinot Noir contributes structure and depth, while Meunier adds a generous, approachable fruit character. The result is a beautifully balanced Champagne with enough richness to accompany a meal and the freshness to make a second glass almost inevitable.

Bright pale gold with a fine, persistent stream of bubbles. Aromas of ripe pear, golden apple and white peach mingle with lemon zest, fresh brioche and toasted hazelnut. A little honeysuckle and subtle spice add further interest. The palate is vibrant and finely textured, with juicy orchard fruit, citrus and a creamy mousse balanced by chalky freshness. Toasted almond and delicate pastry notes develop through the middle, leading to a long, dry finish with a lovely mineral and saline edge.

Freshly shucked oysters, grilled King George whiting or prawns with lemon and garlic would be excellent companions. For something a little richer, try scallops with cauliflower purée, crab linguine or a warm leek and Gruyère tart. It also makes a wonderful aperitif, although Champagne this good deserves more than a bowl of ordinary potato chips. Properly salted French fries, on the other hand, are another matter entirely.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. Delicious on release, with the structure and reserve wine complexity to develop additional toasted and savoury characters over the next several years.