2017 Elderton Command Shiraz, Barossa Valley

This does command respect thanks to the fruit coming off 123yo vines and the care with it from that moment right through to the winemaking. It is powerful and divine. Lush with the dark fruit coated with chocolate, pepper and coffee. The palate feels all velvety with the tannins neatly placed, the oak integrated and with a glass in hand, a sense that all's well with the world.

97 points Jane Faulkner Halliday Wine Companion

There are Barossa Shiraz bottlings that speak loudly, and then there are those that carry their authority with a bit more poise. Command sits firmly in the latter camp. Sourced from Elderton’s historic Command Vineyard in Nuriootpa, planted in 1894, this is old vine Barossa at its most authentic. The Ashmead family, who revived Elderton in the early 1980s, have long treated this site as something special, and under the watch of winemaker Richard Langford it consistently delivers one of the region’s most complete expressions of Shiraz.

The fruit profile is deep and layered rather than overtly flashy. Blackberry, satsuma plum and black cherry roll through first, followed by dark chocolate, liquorice and a dusting of baking spice. There is an earthy undertone too, something quietly savoury that hints at the age of the vines and the vineyard’s sandy loam soils over clay.

Structure is where Command really sets itself apart. Dense, fine grained tannins give it a framework that feels built for the long haul, yet there is enough polish that it never feels aggressive. The palate carries weight, but it is controlled, with a slow, even build of flavour that finishes long and composed. Oak is present but seamlessly integrated, adding depth without taking centre stage.

It is a natural partner for slow roasted lamb shoulder with garlic and rosemary, chargrilled ribeye with bone marrow, or even something like venison with juniper where the wine’s savoury edge can stretch out. Given time, it also works beautifully with aged cheddar or a firm Comté.

This is a wine that rewards patience. While approachable with a decant, it really comes into its own after ten to twenty years, developing layers of leather, spice and earthy complexity while retaining that core of dark fruit.