2008 Gosset Celebris Extra Dry Magnum 1.5L, Champagne

Such a concise and laser-focused wine with tight layers of crushed stones, praline, frangipani flowers, green apples, lemons, hazelnuts, pastries and salted almonds. Very tight bubbles here. So clear and structured, with a long and mineral finish. Still reserved. 54% chardonnay and 46% pinot noir. 4.8g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

96 points jamessuckling.com

Gosset's just-released 2008 Extra-Brut Celebris is showing beautifully out of the gates, offering up sweet aromas of citrus oil, dried white flowers, warm biscuits and nougat, with hints of the dried fruits to come. Medium to full-bodied, racy and layered, with a firm core of fruit that's girdled by tangy acids and a long, penetrating finish, the house's typically tensile style is married with real flesh and weight.

95 points robertparker.com

57% chardonnay predominantly from Vertus, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Verzy and Trépail, 43% pinot predominantly from Cumières, Avenay-Val-d’Or, Aÿ, Bouzy and Ambonnay; aged 9.5 years on lees; 3g/L dosage; cork

Celebris is intricately crafted for heightened elegance with amplified stamina, downplaying fruit concentration while zapping it with a charge of malic acidity that jolts everything into a state of frenzy, slaying innocent, youthful white flowers, white cherries and golden delicious apples with an ice shard of acidity that screams out for years to soften. Fresh coconut, almond nougat and creamy texture declare the magic of long lees age, trailing long into a grand finish of pronounced, mouth-filling salt minerality that bores to the core of Champagne’s greatest grand crus.

The 2008 Gosset Celebris Extra Brut is a masterclass in precision, poise and patience from one of Champagne’s oldest and most revered houses. Gosset, founded in 1584, has long taken a purist’s approach to Champagne, and the Celebris cuvée represents the pinnacle of their craft. Only released in the very best vintages, and only after extended lees ageing, Celebris is a wine of extraordinary tension and depth. The 2008 is among the most lauded expressions of the cuvée to date.

Surced exclusively from grand and premier cru vineyards including Aÿ, Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Ambonnay. No malolactic fermentation is allowed—part of Gosset’s signature style—preserving acidity and lending structure to the wine’s aging potential. This release spent over 12 years on lees before disgorgement and was finished with a low dosage of 3 grams per litre, making it an Extra Brut and amplifying the purity of vintage and terroir.

In the glass, the 2008 Celebris shows a radiant pale gold hue with an ultra-fine bead. The nose is incredibly detailed and layered: white flowers, yuzu, green apple, fresh almond, lemon curd, sea spray and chalk. With air, it reveals deeper notes of quince, brioche, flint and toasted hazelnut.

The palate is electric and crystalline, with razor-sharp acidity beautifully woven into a creamy, chalky texture. Flavours of citrus zest, stone fruit and crushed shell unfold with precision. The finish is long and mineral, lingering with salinity and citrus oil.

Pair with oysters, scallop carpaccio, caviar, lobster with beurre blanc or even a creamy chicken and morel dish. This is a gastronomic Champagne that demands attention at the table. It’s already stunning now but will continue to develop over the next 15 years or more.