2004 Argyros Vinsanto Late Release 500ml, Santorini

Few wines capture the wild volcanic soul of Santorini quite like the extraordinary Vinsanto produced by Estate Argyros. Founded in 1903, the Argyros family has become one of the guardians of the island’s ancient wine traditions. Today the estate is led by Matthew Argyros, who farms some of the oldest ungrafted Assyrtiko vines on earth. Santorini’s vineyards are rooted in black volcanic ash, pumice and lava, and the vines are trained in the traditional basket shaped kouloura to shield them from fierce Aegean winds. For this rare Late Release Vinsanto, predominantly Assyrtiko with small amounts of Aidani and Athiri are harvested late and laid out under the Mediterranean sun to dry, concentrating sugars and flavour. Fermentation is followed by many years ageing in old oak barrels before the wine continues to mature quietly in bottle until the estate judges it ready to release.

Time has transformed the 2004 Argyros Vinsanto Late Release into something extraordinary. The wine glows deep amber with copper highlights. Aromas drift from the glass with dried apricot, orange marmalade, honeycomb and sultana layered with caramel, toasted almond and warm spice. Despite its richness the palate remains vibrant thanks to the naturally piercing acidity of Assyrtiko grown in volcanic soils. Flavours of fig, burnt toffee, candied citrus and dark honey unfold slowly with remarkable persistence and a faint saline mineral edge that reminds you of the island itself. It is a superb match for blue cheese, walnut tart, baklava, roasted figs with thyme or simply enjoyed on its own as a contemplative after dinner wine. With its concentration and acidity this legendary Santorini dessert wine will comfortably age for decades.