2007 Marc Bredif Vouvray Grande Annee, Loire

Marc Brédif is one of the Loire Valley’s quiet benchmarks, founded back in 1893 and long associated with deeply traditional Vouvray that rewards patience. Now under the care of the Baron de Ladoucette family, the house still leans heavily on old cellars carved into the limestone tuffeau, perfect for slowly maturing Chenin Blanc. Grande Année is only produced in standout vintages, and 2007 in Vouvray had the structure and acidity to age beautifully, especially on those classic clay and limestone slopes that give Chenin its tension.

Nearly two decades on, this has moved into a wonderful place. There’s baked apple, quince paste and marmalade, layered with honey, chamomile and a gentle lanolin note that speaks to its age. The palate still carries a line of acidity that keeps everything lifted, so while there’s richness and a waxy texture, it never feels heavy. You start to see those savoury edges too, a little ginger spice, a touch of toasted almond, the kind of complexity that only comes with time in bottle.

This is where food gets interesting. Roast chicken with morels and a light jus works beautifully, as does pork with apple and fennel, or even a buttery lobster roll where the sweetness of the meat meets that acid spine. For something a little different, try it with a Moroccan spiced pumpkin dish or slow cooked tagine with preserved lemon. It can handle a bit of spice and aromatics without missing a beat.

Drink now and over the next 5 to 10 years easily, depending on how much tertiary character you enjoy. Bottles like this don’t come along often, especially with this kind of age already done for you.