2010 Ch Climens 1er Cru Half Bottle 375ml, Barsac

Pale lemon-gold colored, the 2010 Climens reveals a seriously intense nose of mango pudding, warm pineapples and pink grapefruit with hints of exotic spices, toasted almonds and brioche plus a waft of honeycomb. Powerfully flavored and packed with layers of tropical fruits, spices and earthy notes, it finishes epically long and honeyed.

96 points Lisa Perrotti-Brown robertparker.com Drink 2018-48

Château Climens is one of the great names of Barsac, classified Premier Cru in 1855 and often known as the “Lord of Barsac”. The estate’s history stretches back centuries, but much of its modern reputation was shaped during the long stewardship of the Lurton family, with Bérénice Lurton overseeing Climens from the early 1990s. Its reputation rests on an unusual purity of style and an almost singular devotion to Sémillon.

The vineyard occupies a superb limestone plateau in Barsac, where thin clay soils over fractured limestone give the wines their characteristic freshness and mineral edge. Climens is traditionally 100% Sémillon, harvested through successive passes as noble rot develops berry by berry. The outstanding 2010 vintage produced rich, concentrated sweet wines with the acidity to balance that generosity beautifully. In half bottle, this is now moving into a particularly seductive stage of maturity while retaining years ahead.

Luminous deep gold, with apricot preserve, candied orange and ripe peach unfolding into quince and pineapple. Acacia honey, saffron and ginger follow, with beeswax, vanilla and toasted almond becoming more apparent with air. The palate is luscious and silky but never cumbersome, with honeyed stone fruit cut by vibrant citrus acidity. Marmalade, saffron, almond and gentle spice build through a wonderfully persistent finish.

Seared scallops with a little foie gras would make a decadent start, while Roquefort and walnuts, tarte Tatin or an apricot and almond tart can take it towards the end of dinner. Our pick is the Roquefort, served simply with toasted walnuts and good bread. Sweet, salty and gloriously unnecessary restraint.

Cellaring: Drink now or cellar to 2045+.