2011 Domaine Rene Rostaing Cote-Rotie La Landonne, Northern Rhone

Wild and spicy on the nose, shrub, juniper, bitter chocolate, flint, very mineral, also Amarena cherry. On the palate, the wine has a juiciness that is furiously emphasised by the grainy, full-bodied, still tense background, the impression is one of grace and elegance, although the wine is immensely extracted and can continue to mature for another ten, 20, 30 years.

98 points falstaff.com

More substantial, with a meaty, muscular feel, the 2011 Cote Rotie La Landonne exhibits lots of olive tapenade, underbrush, crushed rock and blackberry-styled fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, nicely concentrated (especially for a 2011) and yet voluptuously textured, with moderate, fine tannin, it will round into form relatively early, yet evolve gracefully for 15-20 years. 

94 points Jeb Dunnuck robertparker.com

A bastion of traditional wine making, Rene Rostaing (who previously worked in real-estate) has been working the vineyards of Cote Rotie for the past 40 years, yet didn’t really switch to wine full time until the 1990s. He now owns roughly 20 acres of prime terroir, spread across 14 lieux-dits and 20 separate plots (there can be multiple plots within a lieu-dit). Since 1996, he has produced three separate Cote Roties; the Classique (which is now label Ampodium), the La Landonne, and his personal favorite, the Cote Blonde. He has excelled in both 2011 and 2012. In addition to his superb Northern Rhones, Rene also releases a knockout, Syrah-dominated bottling from the Pic Saint-Loup region in the Languedoc. I’ll review those efforts in the upcoming Languedoc issue.

The 2011 Domaine René Rostaing Cote Rotie La Landonne is one of those wines that makes you slow down, lower your voice and pay attention. La Landonne sits at the heart of the Cote Brune, steep, dramatic and unforgiving, where iron rich soils and dark schist give Syrah its most brooding and serious expression. This is Northern Rhone at its most intense, shaped as much by rock and slope as by the steady hand of a master grower.

René Rostaing is one of the quiet legends of the Rhone. Trained by the greats and deeply respectful of tradition, he built his reputation by farming meticulously and vinifying with restraint. No theatrics, no excess, just absolute focus on the vineyard. La Landonne is his most powerful site, an old vine parcel that delivers structure, depth and an unmistakable savoury authority year after year. Whole bunch fermentation is used judiciously, élevage is long and patient, and the wine is never rushed.

The 2011 vintage brought a slightly more approachable side to La Landonne without sacrificing its spine. In the glass, it opens with black olive, smoked meat and crushed blackberry, followed by violet, graphite, cracked pepper and earthy spice. There is a wild, ferrous note running through it that feels inseparable from the site. The palate is dense and layered, yet remarkably controlled, with firm, fine tannins and a long, savoury finish that slowly fans out rather than fading away.

This is not a wine that shouts. It broods, builds and then quietly takes over the room. With air, it becomes increasingly complex, revealing layers of leather, tapenade and dried herbs that reward patience.

At the table, this is made for serious food. Slow braised lamb, game, duck or dishes built around mushrooms and umami richness are ideal companions. While already offering glimpses of its future, this is still a young La Landonne at heart and will continue to evolve for decades, gaining nuance and depth with time.