2013 Port Phillip Single Vineyard Serenne Shiraz, Mornington Peninsula

Wild flashes of herbs, stalks, twigs and woodsmoke - it's like being caught in a windstorm - but with the volume of fruit to keep it luscious and drinker-friendly. This is a release and a half. Bright, pure, complex, fruit-filled and savoury; you name it, it has it in spades. Drink by 2030

96 points Special Value Campbell Mattinson winecompanion.com.au

The 2013 Port Phillip Estate Single Vineyard Serenne Shiraz from the Mornington Peninsula is a compelling example of cool-climate Australian Syrah, defined by finesse, aromatic lift and structure rather than brute power. While the Mornington Peninsula is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this bottling proves that Shiraz can be just as expressive in the region when grown in the right place, and with the right touch.

Port Phillip Estate is one of the region’s most respected producers, and the Serenne vineyard is a standout parcel situated in Balnarring, on the western edge of the Peninsula. The site benefits from cooling maritime influences from both Port Phillip Bay and Westernport Bay, along with well-drained volcanic soils that lend a savoury, spicy quality to the fruit.

The 2013 vintage was warm and dry, leading to concentrated berries and a richly fruited expression. This wine, now with over a decade of age, is showing beautifully integrated tertiary development alongside its vibrant core. Expect aromas of black cherry, mulberry, cracked pepper, bay leaf and violets. The palate is medium-bodied but deep, with silky tannins, supple plum and blackberry fruit, and layered notes of graphite, black olive and sweet spice. A graceful, slow-build finish lingers with earthy complexity and just a hint of smoked meat.

Drink now, or continue cellaring if you prefer even more evolution. Pair it with slow-roast lamb, duck breast with black cherry glaze, or mushroom and thyme ragù over polenta.