2012 Clyde Park Block G Shiraz, Geelong

Open-fermented, then matured in French oak (35% new) for 11 months with natural mlf. Dense purple-crimson, it is crammed with black cherry, blackberry, spice and licorice, the tannins ripe and the oak no more than background music. Very impressive, full-bodied cool climate shiraz.

96 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, maritime edges of Geelong, Block G is where Clyde Park shows just how refined Shiraz can be when grown in the right place. The estate sits in the Moorabool Valley, where elevation, wind and a long, even growing season allow fruit to ripen slowly, building detail rather than sheer power. Clyde Park has been part of the region’s modern rise, and this single block expression is very much the flagship for their Shiraz.

There is an immediate sense of lift and perfume, dark cherry and blackberry threaded with violet, cracked pepper and a touch of spice. It leans more toward the northern Rhône in feel than the Barossa, with savoury notes of olive and a faint hint of smoked meat adding complexity. Oak is present but finely judged, sitting neatly in the background.

The palate is medium bodied but intense, with silky tannins and a fine line of acidity giving the wine shape and length. Fruit stays vibrant and precise, never heavy, and the finish carries a gentle spice and savoury edge that lingers. It is all about balance and detail, a cool climate expression that rewards a bit of attention.

This works beautifully with food that mirrors its elegance. Think chargrilled lamb cutlets with rosemary, duck breast with a cherry glaze, or even roasted quail. It also pairs well with mushroom dishes and earthy flavours that echo the wine’s savoury side.

Give it a little time and it will open further. Five to ten years will see more complexity emerge, with spice, leather and deeper savoury tones building while the structure softens into something seamless.