2012 Best's Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz, Great Western

The sheer vibrancy and purity of fruit is nothing short of a marvel from these grand, dry grown 1867 vines planted by Henry Best himself. The 2012 is just the 13th release, precociously backward on release, promising a monumental future, yet so irresistible now that it will take superhuman restraint to let it get there. Even in my strictly disciplined tasting routine I couldn't spit it. Such is its vibrancy of purple hue it's almost luminescent, radiating brilliant shafts of violets, black plums, black cherries and raspberries in all directions. Wrapped into its folds, layers of star anise, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate, lingering relentlessly amidst superfine tannins of pristine grace yet confident structure. One of the top half dozen Australian wines of the past year. 2800 bottles. Make sure you get one of them.

98 points Tyson Stelzer 

Deepish red colour with a strong purple tint. Restrained but clean, fresh and fragrant aromas of blue and red fruits, lively spicy cherry fruit flavours and quite elevated acidity. Tight, fine-grained texture and lovely spice flavours. Excellent balance, despite the faintly prominent acidity. A denser but less detailed wine than the Bin No. 0 of the same year, but an absolute cracking wine which needs time to unfold its full potential. 02 Apr 2014 Drink 2017–2049

96 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2012 Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz is a little closed at this youthful stage, giving a glimpse at the beautiful red and black berry elements supported by fragrant baking spices, cedar, black pepper, star anise and toast plus a waft of underbrush. Medium-bodied, taut, muscular and with very fine-grained, firm tannins, it needs time but should be glorious in a few more years.

It was truly an honor to finally be able to pay a visit to Best’s winery at the end of 2014, having been a huge personal fan of their wines for many years. Still very much an under-the-radar producer, Best’s is no newcomer in Australia. In fact, this winery plays an integral part in the history of Australian wine. Founded in 1866, Best’s is one of Australia's oldest family-owned wineries with some of the oldest vines in the country. The “Nursery Block”–a 22-hectare vineyard adjacent to the winery and cellar door–was planted by Henry Best in 1866 and many of the original vines are still in production today. Within the collection, believed to be the most extensive pre-phylloxera plantings in Australia and possibly the world, there are over 39 separate varietals planted, eight of which remain unknown and un-named to this day. In 1920, Frederick Thomson purchased Best’s from the Best family and it has been run diligently by the Thomson family since, with fourth-generation winemaker Viv–one of Australia’s great living wine treasures–still overseeing production while fifth-generation Ben became the managing director and vineyard manager in 2008. The Thomson Family Shiraz, one of Australia’s most extraordinary single-vineyard Shiraz wines, is produced from 15 rows of the original 1868 Shiraz vines, planted by founder Henry Best, and once referred to as ‘Hermitage’ in Henry’s daily journal.
A bit of background info about the subregion and wines: Although it is not officially an Australian G.I., Great Western is considered a subregion of The Grampians. All the fruit for Best’s wines come from Great Western. White label wines come only from Best’s estate vineyards.

97+ points LPB robertparker.com

The 2012 Best’s Great Western Thomson Family Shiraz is a wine of remarkable heritage and gravitas, drawn exclusively from the original 1868 plantings in the Concongella Vineyard. These are some of the oldest pre-phylloxera Shiraz vines in the world, dry-grown and basket-pruned, delivering fruit of immense concentration, natural balance and haunting complexity.

Made only in exceptional vintages, the Thomson Family Shiraz is the crown jewel in the Best’s portfolio. The 2012 vintage in the Grampians was textbook – warm, dry, and even – allowing these ancient vines to ripen slowly and perfectly. Winemaker Justin Purser treated the fruit with gentle handling, using open fermenters, wild yeasts and a mix of seasoned and new French oak to express the purity of site and vine.

In the glass, the 2012 shows incredible poise and depth. The bouquet offers layers of blackberry, mulberry, dark plum and violets, laced with five-spice, clove, graphite and smoky oak. On the palate, it’s plush and powerful without excess, with satin-like tannins, mouth-filling flavour and remarkable length. There’s an undercurrent of cool-climate spice and minerality that keeps it grounded, fresh and elegant despite its intensity.

This wine is built for the long haul. Now over a decade old, it’s just starting to unfurl its tertiary notes – cured meats, earth, leather – but will cellar beautifully for another 15 to 20 years. Serve with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, aged cheddar, or simply savour it with reverence and a wide-bowled glass.