2014 Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz, Frankland River

A neat introduction to Larry Cherubino's exploration of Frankland River, a subregion he has put his proverbial house on. It has the black fruits - the blackest of black indeed - licorice and sturdy tannins to sustain the wine now (with a barbecued ox) or much later.

94 points Special Value James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz is a vivid snapshot of Frankland River, one of Western Australia’s most exciting and distinctive wine regions. Set high in the Great Southern, Frankland River is defined by ancient gravelly soils, cool nights and strong winds that naturally produce wines of structure, perfume and natural acidity. Shiraz here looks nothing like the blockbuster styles of warmer regions. It is about spice, savoury detail and tension.

Ad Hoc is the label of winemaker Larry Cherubino, whose deep understanding of Western Australian terroir has made him one of the country’s most respected voices. With the Middle of Everywhere wines, the goal is simple, to express place with honesty and minimal fuss, letting the vineyard tell the story.

This Shiraz is aromatic and complex, showing dark cherry, blackberry and plum alongside cracked pepper, dried herbs and a faint ironstone note that speaks of Frankland River’s soils. The palate is medium bodied but firmly structured, with fine, chalky tannins and bright acidity giving it energy and lift. It feels precise and savoury rather than heavy or sweet.

This is a brilliant food wine. Grilled lamb, pepper crusted beef, spiced vegetables, barbecue dishes or anything cooked over fire will bring out its depth and spice. The freshness also makes it a great match for dishes with bold flavours.

Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz is delicious now for its vibrancy and detail, but it will continue to evolve over eight to twelve years, gaining more savoury complexity and polish. It is a confident expression of Frankland River and a great reminder of how distinctive Great Southern Shiraz can be.