2015 Albino Rocca Barbaresco, Piedmont

In addition to its classic source—a parcel of old vines in Meruzzano—Rocca’s Barbaresco now takes in young vine fruit from three Barbaresco cru parcels: Ovello, Ronchi and Cottà, the latter rooted in the sandy soils of Neive. Since 2010, the Rocca’s decision to allow a much longer maceration (now three weeks on skins), and to mature their wines exclusively in large Stockinger botti has paid obvious dividends, as has the choice to take the wines out of wood after 20 months (previously 24).

This is again a lovely wine and a terrific value. The nose is already showing great aromatic charm—open and seductive—with a silky, fleshy palate crammed with forest fruits, licorice and spice. It's precociously open and the tannins are easy-going and fine. In other words, it’s drinking pretty damn well. It all adds up to a great restaurant vintage for this cuvée.

The 2015 Barbaresco is a very pretty, entry-level Barbaresco. Crushed flowers, mint, tobacco and cedar give the 2015 lovely aromatic lift. The 2015 is already quite open, which makes it a good choice for drinking now and over the next few years. There is good grip in the tannins, but the slightly forward flavor profile leads me to think the 2015 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Vineyard sources are mostly Meruzzano plus young vine fruit from Ronchi and Loreto.