2015 Mailly Les Echansons Grand Cru, Champagne

This impressive blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims is a rich Champagne. Its spice and light toast aroma is balanced with white fruits and lemon flavors that are still fresh. It is just now ready to drink.

95 points Wine Enthusiast

Excellent structure and framing to this, with fine bubbles accompanying notes of apple crumble, lemon peel and brioche. Plenty of verve and freshness for the vintage. 75% pinot noir and 25% chardonnay. Drink now or hold.

94 points James Suckling

Mailly Grand Cru has built its identity around a single remarkable place. Founded in 1929, the cooperative works exclusively with vineyards in the Grand Cru village of Mailly Champagne on the Montagne de Reims. Les Échansons is the prestige cuvée and sits at the very top of the house, produced only in selected vintages and named for the historic guild of wine stewards. It is a serious, long lived expression of Mailly rather than simply a richer version of the regular wines.

Pinot Noir takes the lead, as you would expect from this part of the Montagne de Reims, with Chardonnay providing lift and finesse. The chalk rich slopes of Mailly give the wine its firm mineral backbone, while long maturation on lees builds the breadth and complexity expected of a prestige Champagne. The 2015 vintage brings generous fruit and concentration, now gaining lovely secondary character after a decade of development.

Deep straw gold with a persistent, beautifully fine bead. Ripe pear, yellow apple and preserved lemon lead into white peach and blood orange, followed by brioche, toasted hazelnut and almond. With air come honey, ginger, dried flowers and a touch of chalky salinity. The palate is broad and creamy yet still energetic, with orchard fruit and citrus wrapped around a fine mousse. Toast, roasted nuts and subtle spice build through the middle before a long, dry finish of lemon peel, chalk and savoury complexity.

Lobster with browned butter and lemon has the richness this deserves, while seared scallops, roast turbot, crab and Gruyère tart or aged Comté with toasted hazelnuts will draw out its mature, nutty side. This has moved well beyond aperitif territory. Cellaring: Drink now to 2040+.