Mailly Brut Reserve Grand Cru, Champagne

Mailly Grand Cru is one of Champagne’s more distinctive houses, founded in 1929 and based entirely around vineyards in the Grand Cru village of Mailly Champagne on the Montagne de Reims. Its growers collectively farm the village’s chalk rich slopes, with Pinot Noir particularly at home here. Brut Réserve is the heart of the range, bringing together the depth of Pinot Noir and the freshness of Chardonnay in a style that gives a very clear introduction to Mailly.

Pinot Noir leads the blend, giving the wine body, red fruit and structure, while Chardonnay contributes citrus lift and finesse. Reserve wines and extended ageing on lees add complexity and consistency, building texture without sacrificing the freshness that runs through the house style. There is enough richness to make it interesting at the table, yet it remains wonderfully easy to open when no particular occasion has presented itself.

Pale gold with a fine, lively bead. Crisp pear, yellow apple and lemon mingle with white peach and grapefruit, followed by brioche, almond and a touch of hazelnut. The palate is bright and generous, with orchard fruit and citrus carried by a creamy mousse. Toasted nuts and pastry add depth through the middle before lemon peel and chalky freshness sharpen the dry, savoury finish.

Fresh oysters and prawns are natural territory, while crab cakes, scallops with lemon butter, mushroom gougères or Comté and leek tart give it plenty to play with at the table. Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.