2015 Vietti Barolo Riserva, Piedmont

Here's an exciting new submission from Vietti that takes us to a whole other level (and evolutionary timeframe). A very late release that is held back at the winery, the 2015 Barolo Riserva sources its fruit solely from Castiglione Falletto. In fact, it represents a special section of the best sites that go into the Barolo Castiglione. Some of that fruit was so impressive, I am told, the decision was made to age it longer (with up to 30 months in large oak casks) and give it a Riserva designation. Specifically, the grapes come primarily from Scarrone and Bric del Fiasc. Production is 5,000 bottles. The wine reveals gorgeous elegance, with evolved fruit flavors and melting tannins. The beauty is that you can drink this wine the same day you buy it.

I tasted these wines with Luca Currado and Elena Penna at the Vietti winery just a short time before I would learn that they were leaving for good. The couple sold Vietti to American entrepreneur Kyle Krause in 2016. That historic sale would mark a milestone for the Barolo appellation that has appreciated in value almost exponentially since then, driving wine, grape and land prices through the roof. Luca and Elena stayed on these past years to ensure continuity in winemaking, but that handover phase finally came to an end this past winter. The couple was nice enough to call me and assure me that they were ready to leave and feel that Vietti is in very good hands. In fact, they leave an outstanding portfolio of wines, counting eight Barolos, including one new Barolo Riserva reviewed here. Elena Penna is now focused on making a popular Vermouth di Torino, and Luca Currado plants to continue in wine as a consultant. The couple still lives in their house above the winery. On a personal note, I will miss them dearly. Luca and Elena are some of my favorite people in Italian wine, and I look forward to their next moves. I send them my warmest regards.

96 points ML robertparker.com