2016 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone

Another perfect wine from this brilliant estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which matches the otherworldly 2007. A classic blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah brought up all in old foudre, this beauty's deep purple color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black currants, blueberries, Asian spices, and garrigue. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless is as graceful as a ballerina on the palate and has ultra-fine tannins, a silky, seamless texture, and a finish that just won't quit. Hats off to vigneron Paul-Vincent Avril!

100 points Jeb Dunnuck 

Clos des Papes is one of the great traditional estates of Châteauneuf du Pape, with the Avril family established in the appellation since the nineteenth century. Paul Avril shaped its modern reputation before his son Paul Vincent took over, maintaining a refreshingly restrained philosophy. There are no prestige red cuvées and no chasing of excessive ripeness. Instead, numerous parcels are blended to express Châteauneuf as a whole. The magnificent 2016 is one of the benchmark vintages of the past two decades.

Grenache leads the blend, supported principally by Mourvèdre and Syrah with small amounts of other traditional varieties. The family’s parcels cover an extraordinary range of Châteauneuf soils, including galets roulés, clay, limestone and sand. Fermentation in concrete and maturation without new oak keep the focus firmly on fruit and terroir. In 2016, a long, warm and exceptionally even season delivered concentration, freshness and beautifully ripe tannins. Nearly a decade later, the wine is beginning to move into a glorious secondary phase.

Deep garnet with a ruby core. Morello cherry, raspberry and dark plum are joined by dried flowers and blood orange before liquorice, fennel and black olive emerge. Rosemary and thyme mingle with tobacco, leather and warm earth as it opens. The palate is deep and seamless, with generous fruit wrapped in fine, increasingly supple tannins. Cherry, anise, olive and dried herbs move towards leather and earthy spice, with fresh acidity carrying everything through an exceptionally long finish.

Duck with olives and lentils would be glorious, while slow roasted lamb with rosemary, porcini risotto, charred octopus with white beans or eggplant baked with tomato and pecorino could all hold their own. Cellaring: Beautiful now with a decant, but there is no hurry. Drink through 2040+.