2021 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone

One of the standouts in the vintage is the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape, a ripe, round, medium to full-bodied 2021 offering a beautiful array of black cherry and darker berry fruits, ample Provençal spice, and dried flower nuances. Wonderfully textured and balanced, with ripe tannins, as usual, Vincent has made one of the wines of the vintage. This will evolve gracefully for 15+ years.

95 points Jeb Dunnuck

Clos des Papes is one of the great traditional estates of Châteauneuf du Pape, with the Avril family’s history in the appellation stretching back to the nineteenth century. Paul Avril built its modern reputation before handing responsibility to his son Paul Vincent, who continues the family’s understated approach. There are no flashy special cuvées here and no attempt to chase fashion. The domaine makes one principal red Châteauneuf, blending numerous parcels to capture the appellation as a whole.

Those parcels are scattered across Châteauneuf du Pape and take in an impressive mix of terroirs, from galets roulés and clay to sand and limestone. Grenache leads the blend, supported principally by Mourvèdre and Syrah with smaller amounts of other traditional varieties. Fermentation takes place in concrete and maturation avoids new oak, keeping the focus firmly on fruit, spice and vineyard character. It is a style built around balance rather than sheer power and has a formidable record in the cellar.

Deep ruby garnet, with raspberry, Morello cherry and blackberry followed by violet and blood orange. Fennel, liquorice and cracked pepper mingle with rosemary, black olive and dried thyme, while warm stone and earthy notes appear with air. The palate is concentrated but wonderfully composed, with ripe red fruit carried by fresh acidity and beautifully shaped tannins. Cherry, anise, olive and Provençal herbs gradually become more savoury across the long, persistent finish.

Slow roasted lamb with garlic, rosemary and white beans is difficult to improve upon here. Duck with olives, charred octopus with chickpeas, porcini and lentil ragù or smoky eggplant with tomato and tahini can take the bottle in different directions. 

Cellaring: Vintage dependent, but generally magnificent from around 8 to 10 years after harvest and capable of developing for 20 to 30 years in strong vintages.