2016 Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts Saint Georges, Burgundy

This the second of the two great Monopole vineyards at the core of this Domaine and it is also one of the great terroirs of Nuits, made clear by its position so close to Les Saint-Georges (and its name which reflects this proximity). At 7.2 hectares, Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is by far the largest single parcel in the l’Arlot stable and produces the Estate’s most profound red wine. Running the entire band of the Côte, from the forest to the RN74, Clos des Forêts contains three distinct terroirs which l’Arlot pick and vinify separately. From top to bottom these comprise a band of white oolitic limestone with very little topsoil; then a fracture in the middle of the vineyard, where pink Premeaux limestone takes over; and then ‘younger’ Ladoix limestone and more clay at the bottom of the slope. A portion of the youngest vines were previously harvested for the now defunct ‘Petits Plets’ cuvée. These have now come of age (they are over 30 years old!) and so form a part of this cuvée. This is the deepest, most intense red in the l’Arlot stable and one that dips into the dark-fruited, meaty, earthy, inky power of this terroir. Clos des Forêts was at the epicentre of the frost damage in 2016—the crop was 70% lower than normal—and while you can appreciate the density of fleshy black cherry, damson fruit and ripe tannins, Godot has also coaxed out some lovely floral complexity, terrific freshness and finesse. As with the Clos de l’Arlot above, Forêts was vinified with 50% whole bunches and 50% new oak.

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“The 2016 Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges includes 50% whole cluster with 50% new oak. This has the most precise bouquet from Domaine de l’Arlot this year: exquisite scents of wild strawberry, cranberry, wild hedgerow and just a hint of graphite. It feels tightly wound at first but gathers pace with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. This feels crisp and linear, and there's good depth of flavor as this gently grips the mouth. Red fruits dovetail into black toward the graphite-tinged finish, the persistence very long. There is palpable energy in situ that should see it age for two decades.” 

“♥ Outstanding. Here too the nose is overtly floral in character though relative to the Suchots the dark berry fruit aromas are much earthier and decidedly less spicy. The sleekly muscular, intense and broad-shouldered flavors possess outstanding mid-palate density and power before culminating in a robust, firmly structured and wonderfully complex finale. This is a classically styled Nuits that is very definitely built-to-age and one that is definitely going to need it.” 

91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue #69