2017 Anselmi Capitel Foscarino IGT, Veneto

Anselmi Capitel Foscarino IGT is one of the defining white wines of Veneto and a landmark expression of what Garganega can achieve when terroir and ambition come together. The Foscarino hill sits in the heart of Soave Classico, a steep volcanic outcrop of black basalt and tuff that naturally limits yields and gives wines their unmistakable mineral depth. Roberto Anselmi is one of the great disruptors of Italian wine, a grower who challenged the limits of the Soave DOC long before it was fashionable to do so. By declassifying his top wines to IGT, he freed himself from restrictive rules and focused entirely on site expression, vine age and quality. Capitel Foscarino comes from old vines planted on terraces carved into the volcanic hillside, a place where Garganega achieves both richness and tension in equal measure.

The wine shows a deep straw gold colour, immediately expressive with aromas of ripe pear, yellow peach, chamomile, almond blossom and a distinctive smoky, flinty note that comes straight from the volcanic soils. On the palate it is textured and powerful yet beautifully balanced, layering stone fruit, citrus oil and savoury almond notes with a firm mineral spine and fresh acidity that carries the wine long across the palate. Oak is present but subtle, adding depth and polish rather than flavour, allowing the vineyard character to dominate. This is a white wine built for the table, superb with roast chicken, pork, risotto, grilled seafood and aged cheeses, and it also has remarkable aging potential, evolving gracefully for ten to fifteen years as it gains honeyed, nutty and savoury complexity.