2017 Arras Grand Vintage, Tasmania

69/31% chardonnay/pinot noir fermented in a combination of stainless steel and new tightly grained French oak barriques (6%), disgorged November '24. Finely bubbled, with an expressive swell of grapefruit, lemon, apple and poached pear fruits with underlying nuances of fresh brioche, apple butter, crushed stone, ocean breeze, nougat and crème brûlée. The toasty tones grow on the palate, along with grilled nuts and soft spice. A tight, umami-rich acidity brings everything into line and provides a harmonious cadence as the wine sails forward. Finishes long and true with just a light phenolic texture and ample complexity.

96+ points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Arras Grand Vintage from Tasmania is one of Australia’s most sophisticated and ageworthy sparkling wines, crafted by Ed Carr from the finest cool climate parcels across the island. Tasmania’s maritime climate, long daylight hours and bracing Southern Ocean winds give Chardonnay and Pinot Noir extraordinary natural acidity and purity, the cornerstone of great méthode traditionnelle. The fruit is drawn from select high altitude and coastal vineyards in Pipers River, Coal River and the East Coast, each contributing nuance: citrus drive from the north, mineral tension from the east, and red fruited finesse from the south. After whole bunch pressing and cool primary fermentation, the base wines are assembled and bottled for secondary fermentation, then aged for many years on lees in deep, dark cellars. This lengthy maturation is what defines Grand Vintage, building savoury depth, creamy texture and slow developing complexity that rivals serious Champagne.

The aromatics are polished, layered and quietly powerful. Lemon curd, white peach and green apple appear first, supported by grapefruit, pear and apricot skin. Long lees ageing introduces notes of toasted brioche, almond meal, hazelnut, pastry cream and warm spices. Beneath it all lies a cool mineral seam reminiscent of oyster shell, wet stone and sea spray. As the wine breathes, nuances of honeycomb, chamomile, nougat, roasted nuts and delicate florals unfurl, giving the bouquet both richness and remarkable freshness.

On the palate the wine is seamless, detailed and beautifully composed. A fine, persistent bead carries citrus, orchard fruit and subtle red fruit across a silken mid palate shaped by its many years on lees. Flavours of lemon zest, peach skin, apple tart, nougat, toasted nuts and savoury pastry build in elegant layers, anchored by bright Tasmanian acidity that keeps the wine focused and energetic. The finish is long, pure and chalk edged, lingering with citrus oil, roasted almond, brioche and a gentle saline lift. With further bottle age it develops deeper honeyed, truffled and nutty characters while retaining its sculpted structure.

A magnificent companion to oysters, lobster, scallops, sashimi, roast chicken, mushroom dishes, truffle cheeses, seafood risotto or luxury snacks like parmesan fries. It’s a wine made for celebration but equally intriguing when savoured slowly on its own.