2017 Audrey Wilkinson Museum Release Shiraz, Hunter Valley

This is a fascinating wine, as despite '17 being an extremely hot vintage, it retains beautiful freshness, likely due to the inclusion of 15% whole bunches in fermentation. It has a gorgeous, harmonious aroma, a mix of red plums, fragrant herbs and violets. The mid-palate is beautifully supple, silky and red-fruited. Originally rated 96 on release, it holds this score today, a testament to its inherent quality. 14.5.

96 points Toni Paterson MW winecompanion.com.au

Audrey Wilkinson Museum Release Shiraz from the Hunter Valley is a rare, cellared release that showcases the winery’s ability to produce long-lived, elegant reds with a true sense of place. The fruit comes from estate-grown vineyards where the warm Hunter days are tempered by coastal breezes, allowing for gradual ripening and the development of complex aromatics without overblown alcohol. The soils here are predominantly volcanic loams, which contribute both richness and a subtle earthiness to the wine.

The Museum Release program involves holding back small parcels of exceptional vintages in the winery’s climate-controlled cellars, allowing them to mature under perfect conditions before release. By the time this Shiraz reaches the market, it has already developed the tertiary notes and refined tannins that normally require years of cellaring at home. The winemaking is classic Hunter Valley Shiraz, with fermentation in open vats, gentle cap management to preserve elegance, and maturation in French oak hogsheads to provide structure without overwhelming the fruit.

On the nose, it offers a complex interplay of blackberries, dark cherries, and mulberries, with layers of leather, tobacco leaf, black pepper, and a faint hint of game from bottle age. The palate is silky and medium-bodied, carrying flavours of ripe plum, forest floor, and spice, framed by supple tannins and vibrant acidity. The finish is long and savoury, the hallmark of well-aged Hunter Shiraz.

It is a superb partner for slow-braised beef cheeks, roast duck with cherry glaze, or a chargrilled lamb rack with rosemary. Aged cheeses like Manchego or aged Gouda also pair beautifully. While ready to drink now, it can hold for a further 5–7 years in good conditions for those who enjoy more developed secondary flavours.

Audrey Wilkinson is one of the Hunter Valley’s most storied estates, with a winemaking history dating back to 1866. Perched high on the Brokenback Range, the vineyard commands sweeping views over Pokolbin and benefits from exceptional exposure to breezes that keep the vines healthy and the fruit pristine. The Museum Release Shiraz is a rare treat, offering a glimpse into how beautifully Hunter Shiraz can evolve with time. It’s made from mature estate vines, crafted in a classic regional style that prioritises elegance over sheer power, and cellared at the winery until the perfect moment for release.

The Hunter Valley’s warm summers, tempered by cooling maritime influences, shape Shiraz that’s medium-bodied, silky, and layered with earthy complexity rather than overt fruit sweetness. The soils here are predominantly friable red clay loams with pockets of volcanic basalt, which contribute to the wine’s savoury undertones and fine tannin structure. Audrey Wilkinson’s winemaking team uses gentle handling and traditional fermentation, followed by careful maturation in French oak, to retain the region’s distinctive perfume and spice.

In the glass, the Museum Release Shiraz shows a deep garnet colour with brick highlights from graceful aging. Aromas of mulberry, red plum, black pepper, and leather unfold alongside subtle cedar and dried herbs. The palate is beautifully resolved, with fine, silky tannins carrying notes of dark fruit, earthy spice, and a whisper of smoked meats through a long, harmonious finish. It’s a masterclass in the evolution of Hunter Shiraz, showing how time in the bottle softens the edges and draws out incredible depth and complexity.

This is a superb match for slow-cooked beef cheeks, duck with cherry jus, or lamb rack with rosemary. Mature Hunter Shiraz also works wonderfully with aged hard cheeses, where the wine’s savoury nuances complement the cheese’s crystalline texture. With its provenance and age, the Museum Release is both a collector’s gem and a wine to enjoy at its peak.