2017 Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Gran Reserva, Rioja

Walnuts, subdued dried plums, dried sweet spices, hazelnuts, chocolate and touches of dry earth and pine cones. Still quite juicy and firm, with a medium to full body and a creamy, lengthy finish that turns a bit savory at the end. Drink or keep holding.

92 points jamessuckling.com

Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Gran Reserva from Rioja is a masterful, long-aged red wine that reflects both the heritage and modern precision of this esteemed family estate. Produced only in exceptional vintages, the Gran Reserva represents the pinnacle of the Valdemar range — a wine of depth, elegance and remarkable longevity, combining the richness of Rioja’s classic style with the purity of contemporary craftsmanship.

The blend is predominantly Tempranillo, complemented by small portions of Graciano and Mazuelo, sourced from old vines in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. These high-altitude vineyards, with their limestone and clay soils, provide a perfect balance of fruit intensity and natural acidity. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is aged for around 30 months in a mix of American and French oak barrels, followed by several years of bottle ageing in the Bodegas Valdemar cellars before release. This extended maturation allows the flavours to integrate beautifully, resulting in a wine of complexity, finesse and quiet power.

In the glass it shows deep garnet with brick-red edges hinting at its maturity. The aroma is seductive and layered, revealing dark cherry, dried fig, tobacco leaf and cedar, along with notes of clove, cocoa and earthy spice. On the palate it is full bodied yet graceful, with polished tannins supporting flavours of ripe plum, redcurrant, vanilla and savoury oak. The finish is long and silky, lingering with hints of dried herbs and warm spice — the hallmark of a true Rioja Gran Reserva.

Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Gran Reserva pairs perfectly with roast lamb, slow-cooked beef, game dishes or aged Manchego. It also shines alongside truffle risotto or rich mushroom stews. Already beautifully evolved, it will continue to develop for another decade or more, gaining subtle notes of leather, cigar box and balsamic richness with age.