2018 Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Reserva, Rioja

Vanilla, hazelnuts and chocolate on top of waffles and blackberries. A bit obvious on the chewy medium- to full-bodied palate. Long, tight finish. Still juicy but needs time to let the toasty wood tannins soften. Try in 2027.

91 points jamessuckling.com

Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Reserva from Rioja is a classic, elegant and beautifully structured Tempranillo-based red that epitomises the balance of tradition and innovation that defines this fifth-generation family estate. The Valdemar family has been crafting fine Rioja wines for over 130 years, blending deep respect for regional heritage with a modern approach to vineyard management and winemaking. The Reserva sits at the heart of their range — a polished, complex Rioja that reflects both the family’s experience and the character of Rioja Alavesa’s limestone-rich vineyards.

The wine is predominantly Tempranillo with small portions of Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha, sourced from estate vineyards across Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. After careful hand harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless steel to preserve purity of fruit. The wine then spends around 24 months in a combination of American and French oak barrels, followed by extended bottle ageing before release. This long maturation brings structure, finesse and the signature Rioja balance of fruit and spice.

In the glass it shows deep garnet with ruby edges. The aroma is generous and refined, offering ripe cherry, blackberry and plum alongside cedar, tobacco, vanilla and warm spice from the oak. On the palate it is smooth and harmonious, with layers of red and black fruit, savoury earth and dried herbs framed by fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. The finish is long and elegant, combining Rioja’s signature warmth with a modern sense of freshness and precision.

Bodegas Valdemar Conde Valdemar Reserva pairs beautifully with roast lamb, grilled steak, Iberico ham or mushroom-based dishes. It also complements hard cheeses and rich tapas. Ready to enjoy now, it will continue to evolve gracefully over 10 to 15 years, gaining complexity and tertiary character with time.