The Vieilles Vignes comes from a selection of the oldest vines in the Clos, mostly planted in 1910 and situated mid-slope, right in the heart of the vineyard. These ancient vines yield only two to three tiny bunches of grapes per vine in a good year. The net result is a Clos de Vougeot of unique intensity, breadth of flavour, complexity and structural power. Interestingly, there are a number of Pinot Beurot (Gris) vines inter-planted in these parcels which are harvested and vinified with the Pinot Noir. The wine shows only a subtle wood influence thanks to the quality of Labet's oak, which is made to order; Labet buys and ages his own tight-grain staves and air-dries them for two to three years, then he has barrels (mostly 350 litre and some 450 litre) made by the tiny cooper Stéphane Chassin. Labet and Chassin taste the first wines that finish fermenting each vintage (from tank) so that Chassin knows how to finish the barrels. In certain vintages, the Vieilles Vignes can be a much more powerful, structured wine than the Classique, but more and more it is, in fact, simply finer.
While there's certainly more depth and fruit intensity here, there's also more detail and clarity and exceptionally fine, powdery tannins that coat the tongue and drive the very long finish. It's built for the long haul, yet the balance on offer is capable of delivering huge pleasure in the short term. When you consider that this is benchmark Grand Cru from 100-plus-year-old vines, the pricing again seems very reasonable. Prime that decanter.
This old vine cuvée is picked second at the château, before the Cuvée Classique and after the Hommage. It sees 100% stems and 100% new wood, producing a bold, rich, ripely textured Clos de Vougeot showing plenty of tannic backbone, spicy bramble and summer trifle fruit, with enough acidity for balance.