2017 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett, Mosel

Rich, complex bouquet with a touch of reduction and minerally, honey fruit - concentrated and lush, with wonderful fruit flavour, acidity and sweetness in perfect harmony. Long, long finish and great balance. (45 g/l sweetness) Drink: 2020-2032

95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com
 
Spicy aroma, slate and the whole oriental spice market, curry, fenugreek, pepper. On the palate shows tension, typical for the Kabinett, but also richness (of fruit flavors) and even some smoothness. The insistent tactile minerality almost makes you forget that sweetness and acidity are also at play.

93 points falstaff.com

2017 Dr H Thanisch Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett is a beautiful snapshot of classic Mosel Riesling and one of the most charming expressions of the Bernkastel vineyards. Bernkasteler Badstube sits just below the famous Doctor vineyard, wrapped around the village on steep slopes of blue Devonian slate that store warmth during the day and release it slowly at night. This creates the gentle ripening and piercing acidity that define great Kabinett. Dr H Thanisch is one of the Mosel’s historic estates, founded in the nineteenth century and still family run, with a reputation built on purity, restraint and deep respect for vineyard tradition. The Thanisch family has long specialised in Kabinett and Spätlese styles that emphasise finesse over power, and Badstube is prized for producing wines that are fragrant, delicate and quietly complex rather than overtly dramatic.

The 2017 vintage was classic and balanced, ideal for Kabinett. In the glass the wine shows a pale straw colour with green highlights, opening with aromas of lime zest, green apple, white peach and spring flowers, lifted by a subtle slate and smoke note that speaks clearly of the Mosel. The palate is light on its feet yet deeply satisfying, layering crisp citrus and orchard fruit with a gentle touch of sweetness perfectly balanced by vibrant acidity. There is a beautiful sense of flow and freshness, with a long, mouthwatering finish that invites another sip. It is superb with spicy Asian dishes, sushi, pork, fresh herbs and soft cheeses, and it will age gracefully for ten to fifteen years, developing honeyed, floral and savoury nuances while retaining its signature Mosel energy.