2018 Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler-Kues Riesling Alte Reben Kabinett, Mosel

Light colour and a marked reductive note on the light riesling aroma. It's straightforward and floral, the reduction persisting on the nose. Restrained, delicate; only very subtle sweetness and a fairly moderate carry. Pleasant early drinking. (9 g/l sweetness)

90 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

The 2018 Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler-Kues Riesling Alte Reben Kabinett from the Mosel is a beautifully expressive example of what this historic estate does best: Rieslings of precision, charm and longevity. Dr. H. Thanisch has been making wine in Bernkastel for over 375 years, with the family’s holdings including some of the most prized parcels along the Mosel. The “Alte Reben” designation means old vines, in this case averaging 40–60 years of age, rooted deep into the slate soils of Bernkasteler-Kues. These vines yield naturally low crops with concentrated flavours and a strong mineral backbone.

The 2018 vintage was a warm year in the Mosel, producing generous, fruit-driven wines with excellent balance. In the glass, the wine is pale gold with green hues. The bouquet is lifted and aromatic, with classic Mosel notes of lime, white peach and green apple, layered with honeysuckle, flint and slate minerality. On the palate, it shows the hallmark Kabinett style: light-bodied yet full of flavour, with ripe stone fruit, citrus and subtle tropical hints framed by zesty acidity and a delicate touch of sweetness. The finish is crisp, mouth-watering and finely etched with minerality.

Food pairings highlight its gentle sweetness and refreshing acidity. It’s a natural partner for spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes, Szechuan stir-fry, or lighter fare like sushi, grilled prawns and summer salads. It also pairs beautifully with soft cheeses such as chèvre or creamy Brie. While enjoyable young for its fruit vibrancy, it will cellar for 12 to 15 years, developing more honeyed, toasty and petrol-like complexity while maintaining balance.