2017 Gembrook Hill Blanc de Blancs, Yarra Valley

Made from chardonnay planted in 1983. Traditional method, six years on tirage, 6.15g/L dosage. Bright gold with green tinges. Lively, complex and understated from the first sip. Aromas of poached pear, white peach, orange zest, lightly toasted nuts and a little candied ginger. As always with this cuvée, there's rapier-like acidity, but this is more than matched by the wine's intensity and chalky texture. The dosage has been perfectly judged and while it can be enjoyed now, there's no doubt this will age superbly over the next decade or so.

97 points Special Value ✪ Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au Aug 2023