2017 Hans Herzog Viognier, Marlborough

Medium to full straw-yellow colour with some oiliness of texture and a classic varietal viognier bouquet of spiced honey and apricot. The palate is rich and intense, rounded and supple, generous as well as soft and easy on the tongue. Very good concentration. It has serious flavour depth without heaviness, excessive grip or alcohol heat. (Hand-picked, skin macerated, wild fermented and natural malolactic in 500-litre puncheons, kept on fine lees for 18 months, no fining or cold stabilisation, lightly filtered, minimal SO2).

95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com 11 APR 2020
 

2017 Hans Herzog Viognier is a striking and deeply serious expression of this aromatic Rhône variety, grown in Marlborough but shaped by a distinctly European sensibility. The fruit comes from the Herzog family’s organically farmed vineyards in the Wairau Valley, where free draining alluvial soils, long daylight hours and cool nights allow Viognier to reach full flavour maturity while retaining freshness and balance. Unlike many overtly perfumed examples, this Viognier is built on structure, texture and restraint, reflecting both site and winemaking philosophy rather than simple varietal exuberance.

Hans Herzog is one of New Zealand’s most singular winemakers. Trained in Switzerland and shaped by extensive experience across Europe, Herzog arrived in Marlborough in the early 1990s with a clear vision that great wines come from low yields, organic farming and patience. His approach to Viognier mirrors his work with other varieties, harvesting for balance rather than alcohol, fermenting with care and allowing time on lees to build complexity. Oak is used judiciously and never as a flavour driver, serving instead to frame the wine and enhance texture.

In the glass the wine shows a luminous golden straw colour. Aromas are layered and refined, offering apricot, white peach, honeysuckle and orange blossom, supported by subtle spice, almond and a gentle mineral note. The palate is richly textured yet beautifully poised, delivering stone fruit, citrus oil and savoury lees complexity balanced by fresh acidity and a long, harmonious finish. There is depth and persistence without heaviness, making the wine exceptionally food friendly. It shines with roast chicken, pork, spiced dishes, rich seafood and aromatic cuisines, and it has the structure to age gracefully for eight to twelve years, gaining honeyed, nutty and savoury nuance as it evolves.

2017 Hans Herzog Viognier is a compelling reminder of what Viognier can be when handled with discipline and patience, offering richness, complexity and longevity rather than fleeting perfume.