2017 l'Oratoire Saint Martin Côtes du Rhône Les P'tit Gars, Southern Rhone

This superb value wine was previously known simply as the ‘Côtes du Rhône’ cuvée. It is now named Les P'tit Gars (“the little mates”), as the brothers Frédéric and François Alary were once referred to around the town of Cairanne when they were boys. It's crafted from mature vine Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%), with 20% Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, and Terret Noir, the latter from the Domaine's new plantings.

These younger vines notwithstanding, it's essentially an old vine version of the Domaine's entry level Côtes du Rhône (P'tit Martin) with correspondingly greater depth, structure and savouriness. There is no small wood involved in the ageing and the wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The 2017 version is an intense, aromatic CdR with lots of raspberry and anise, Grenache lift, layers of sweet red fruits and a long, spicy, surprisingly powdery close. Will benefit with a year or three for sure, but with food, it already sings.

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