2017 Massolino Barolo Margheria, Piedmont

Camphor, wild berry, new leather and blue flower aromas emerge on the nose of this savory wine. Full-bodied and delicious, the structured palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, baking spice and a hint of menthol alongside firm, refined tannins. This is an incredible performance for what is the firm's entry-level Barolo. Drink 2023–2029.

95 points Kerin O’Keefe wineenthusiast.com

More subdued aromatically speaking, the Massolino 2017 Barolo Margheria is timid on first nose and takes longer to open. I coaxed the wine in my glass for a while before getting a fuller picture of red and purple fruits, grilled herb, limestone and a spicy hint of white peppercorn. I remember the cooler 2016 vintage as beautifully exuberant and expressive overall, whereas this 2017 edition has a quieter personality.

93 points Monica Larner robertparker.com
 
The Margheria vineyard is one of Serralunga’s most important and illustrious sites. The Massolino family bought their first parcel here in 1964 and the rest throughout the ’70s. They currently hold 1.5 hectares. Sitting at 340 metres above sea level, Margheria is a very chalky vineyard with a good percentage of sand, which brings elegance and spicy, mineral characters to the natural depth of Serralunga. This was aged in botti for around 24 months before bottling and then remained in bottle for a further year before release. Nine times out of ten, Margheria is the Serralunga cru that seduces best when young. This is no exception. Just stunning. On the one hand it’s a classic Margheria—those wild florals on the nose and the strawberry/red-fruited brightness and finesse on the palate. Yet it is also clearly a deeper, more powerful rendition with a long, bloody, violet-noted close. Extraordinarily delicious now, it will also cellar very well.

2017 Massolino Barolo Margheria is a classic and deeply expressive Barolo from the heart of Serralunga d’Alba, a village celebrated for producing the most structured and long lived wines of the appellation. The Margheria cru sits on the western side of Serralunga at around three hundred metres elevation, with compact limestone and sandstone soils rich in iron that give Nebbiolo its firm tannic backbone, mineral drive and unmistakable seriousness. Compared to Massolino’s more austere Vigna Rionda, Margheria often shows slightly more generosity in fruit while still retaining the noble structure that defines Serralunga.

Massolino is one of Barolo’s great traditional houses, founded in 1896 and still family owned, now led by Franco and Roberto Massolino. The estate has long been associated with a classical approach to Nebbiolo, emphasising site expression, long macerations and patient aging. In recent decades the Massolino family has refined their practices with greater precision in both vineyard and cellar while remaining true to tradition. Vineyard work is meticulous, yields are kept low, and vinification is designed to allow the character of each cru to emerge clearly rather than imposing a house style.

The 2017 vintage was warm and early, producing wines of concentration and power, and Margheria in this year shows depth and authority balanced by freshness. In the glass the wine displays a deep garnet colour with ruby edges. Aromas are layered and evolving, offering rose petal, sour cherry, red plum, licorice, dried herbs and iron rich earth. The palate is firm and structured, delivering dense red fruit, savoury spice and a strong mineral core framed by fine grained, persistent tannins. Despite its power, there is clarity and balance throughout, with a long, resonant finish that promises long life.

This is a Barolo built for serious food and cellaring, pairing beautifully with braised beef, wild game, truffles and aged Parmigiano. It will evolve confidently over twenty years or more, developing leather, dried flowers, tar and earthy complexity as it matures. 2017 Massolino Barolo Margheria is a superb expression of Serralunga d’Alba, combining strength, precision and classical elegance in equal measure.