2017 Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon, Barossa Valley

Always a firm favourite in our household, Peter Lehmann's Margaret Semillon provides complex drinking and a length of flavour that many producers aspire to. It's a regional classic, and rightly so. All lemon butter spread on freshly toasted brioche with hints of soft spice, marzipan, wildflowers, crushed stone and drying fields. Dry, savoury, long and compelling. Some crustaceans and some of this and you are in a very good place.

96 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon from the Barossa Valley is one of Australia’s most quietly outstanding white wines — a benchmark Semillon that combines varietal purity, bottle age, and remarkable value. Named in honour of Peter Lehmann’s wife, Margaret, this wine is only produced in exceptional vintages and aged in bottle for up to five years before release. It showcases the unique character of Barossa Semillon: picked early, unoaked, and made to age into something textured, complex and strikingly fresh.

Sourced from old vine vineyards in the Barossa Valley, the fruit is hand-picked early to retain high natural acidity. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with no oak influence, and the wine is held on fine lees for texture and complexity. The Margaret Semillon is always released as a mature wine, so it already shows development without needing to cellar it yourself.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of lemon zest, lanolin, white flowers, toasted hay and beeswax. The palate is dry and beautifully structured, with crisp acidity framing layers of citrus, almond skin, green apple and earthy minerality. There's a savoury, waxy depth that builds with air, and a long, clean finish that is both refreshing and quietly complex.

Food pairing: perfect with oysters, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, grilled prawns, or fresh chèvre and herbs. Also excellent with Thai-style fish cakes or sashimi.

Cellar potential: already matured before release, but capable of ageing another 5 to 10 years depending on vintage. Will develop more honeyed, nutty complexity over time.