2017 Santolin Gruyere Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

From a single block on the Syme-on-Yarra Vineyard, 25% whole bunches, 75% whole berries, 14-day cold soak, wild-fermented, matured in French oak (35% new) for 10 months. The whole bunch has been upscaled from that of its Gladysdale sibling, but the extra depth to the cherry/plum fruit more than copes. This is a most attractive wine.

95 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au 1 August 2019

Santolin Gruyere Pinot Noir is a finely tuned and quietly expressive Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, shaped by the cooler eastern reaches of the valley where elevation, airflow and long ripening seasons favour perfume, structure and savoury detail. The Gruyere subregion sits higher and cooler than the valley floor, with clay loam soils over ancient volcanic material that naturally restrict vigour and give Pinot Noir tension and line. These conditions produce wines that lean toward elegance and freshness rather than weight, with a strong emphasis on site expression.

Santolin is a small, quality focused Yarra Valley producer known for a hands on approach in both vineyard and cellar. Fruit is sourced from carefully managed sites in Gruyere, with low yields and harvest decisions driven by flavour and tannin maturity rather than sugar alone. Winemaking is restrained and thoughtful, allowing Pinot Noir’s natural character to shine through. Gentle extraction and well judged oak are used to build texture and complexity without masking the wine’s bright fruit and savoury core.

In the glass the wine shows a bright ruby colour with excellent clarity. Aromas are lifted and detailed, offering red cherry, wild strawberry and cranberry layered with rose petal, dried herbs and a subtle forest floor note. The palate is medium bodied and finely structured, delivering pure red fruit flavours, fine, silky tannins and a long, fresh finish carried by natural acidity. It is beautifully food friendly, pairing well with roast chicken, duck, mushroom dishes and grilled salmon, and it has the balance to develop over five to eight years, gaining extra savoury and earthy complexity with time.

Santolin Gruyere Pinot Noir is a refined and honest expression of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, offering clarity, balance and a strong sense of place from one of the region’s cooler, most expressive subregions.