2017 Sidewood Estate Cassandra Blanc De Blancs, Adelaide Hills

A 100% Dijon Chardonnay clone, traditional method Sparkling from the Sidewood estate Oakbank vineyard. Winemaking includes first ferment and 10 months in barrel, 20% new French hogsheads, before second ferment and final disgorgement after 6 years in its own bottle, gathering complex yeast autolysis characters that are a notable complexity in the overall expression here. House-style tonic bitterness as well, which piles on palate depth as the expected aged notes of toasted nuts fill out classic Chardonnay citrus flavours now developing their own richness with all that time on lees. This is a drink now wine given its overt personality and recommended for Champagne freaks looking for an Australia version to satisfy their cravings. Drink 2025-2026.

96 points Tony Love for Wine Pilot, January 2025

The Cassandra Blanc de Blancs is Sidewood's prestige sparkling wine, named after the Inglis family's daughter and made in the méthode traditionnelle style from 100% Chardonnay grown in the Adelaide Hills. Extended time on lees before disgorgement builds the autolytic complexity that defines the style, and the 2017 has had eight years to develop into a really lovely wine.

Pale gold with fine persistent bubbles, the nose shows brioche, lemon curd, toasted almond and a hint of ginger and dried orange peel. The palate is creamy and structured with good depth, saline minerality and a racy acidity that carries the wine to a long, persistent finish. A serious sparkling wine from a region that consistently produces this style with real conviction.

Worth opening at the festive lunch or dinner table rather than just as an aperitif. Drink now through 2028.