2017 Stefano Lubiana Blanc de Blancs, Derwent Valley

This 2017 Blanc de Blancs is a single-vineyard bottling from the oldest Chardonnay vines on the property. There is a small component of oak used for fermentation and maturation in the base wine, between 10% and 20%. This bottle was disgorged in the winter of 2025, and the intention is for this wine to be held under cork for a while yet, perhaps the spring of 2026 for release. This is only the fourth time this wine has been produced, the first in 2014. The fruit here underwent full malolactic fermentation, and the conditions of the vineyard fully allow for this to complex the wine, rather than dominate it. So, on the nose, the wine is toasty and laden with lemon curd and chalk, an attractive hint of curry leaf and brine. In the mouth, the wine is rich and toasty, and its eight years on the lees have imbued it with tension, freshness and a creamy texture. The length of flavor is excellent. It had five grams per liter dosage, as less is required due to the warmth of the site here. Drink to 2037.

95 points Erin Larkin for The Wine Advocate, March 2026

This bottle fermented sparkling Chardonnay was made from estate grown fruit and spent eight years on lees in the bottle before disgorgement and a further year under cork in the estate cellars prior to release.

Finished with a modest dosage, it pours fine and energetic, the aromas packed with baked apples, vanilla custard and soft spice, all wrapped in toasty brioche buns. There’s a lovely saline thread across the palate, the overall feeling dry, complex and savoury.

This would be a festive treat with buttery, finger food size brioche toasts topped with southern rock sea urchin, bit of flaky salt and micro chervil or gougères filled with Comté and fresh thyme.

About this producer

Steve and Monique Lubiana laid the foundation of Stefano Lubiana Wines in 1990. Located in Tasmania’s southern Derwent Valley, their now 25-hectare Granton vineyard was the first in Tasmania to be certified biodynamic. The family also farms a 10-hectare site acquired in 2016 in the neighbouring Huon River Valley.

A fifth-generation winemaker born to an Italian migrant family from Friuli, Steve continues to oversee all aspects of viticulture and winemaking, and son Marco has worked alongside him in aspects of the business.

While they have a strong focus on premium sparkling wines, the quality of the still Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines is excellent and consistent, and the family loves to experiment and explore with other varieties and styles.