2018 Bannockburn Chardonnay, Geelong

A quiet revolution is underway at Bannockburn. Stay tuned for an update next year, but in the meantime Matt Holmes’ current releases are talking the talk. As always, the Chardonnay is drawn mostly from the Estate's Olive Tree Hill Vineyard (planted in 1976) and Winery Block (1981), on volcanic soils over limestone, and the average age of vines sits around the 35-year-old mark. 2018 marks the first year this blend includes fruit from the Kelly Lane Vineyard (Clone 76), from where a massale selection is soon to be grafted over a section of the close-planted De la Roche and De la Terre vineyards.

The fruit was whole-bunch pressed, settled overnight then wild fermented in 500-litre French oak puncheons (20% new). One quarter of the wine did not go through malo, and the wine spent 12 months on lees with minimal stirring and no sulphur added, aside for a small addition before bottling. Bright and floral with lovely acid drive. Shows a clear intent with more restraint than previous vintages. The palate opens all fleshy and generous but it finishes with a lovely savoury twist and classic Bannockburn salinity.