2018 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Im Laychen Riesling Grosses Gewächs Reserve, Mosel

The fantastically deep nose of white peaches and white flowers pulls you into this extremely structured and concentrated dry Mosel riesling that nonetheless has a terrific sensuality. Extremely long and compact finish with great precision. And this is only just beginning to show what it’s made of. Drink or hold.

98 points jamessuckling.com

Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Im Laychen Riesling Grosses Gewächs Reserve is a rare and deeply expressive dry Riesling from one of the Mosel’s most celebrated vineyards. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr, or “sundial of Wehlen,” is famed for its blue Devonian slate soils, perfect south-facing exposure, and breathtakingly steep slopes above the Mosel River. These conditions combine to produce Rieslings of incredible purity, finesse and longevity.

The “Im Laychen” is a historically prized parcel within the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, planted to old, ungrafted Riesling vines that dig deep into the slate bedrock. These vines yield very small crops of intensely flavoured grapes with a striking mineral backbone. The Grosses Gewächs Reserve label denotes not only a grand cru dry Riesling, but one that has been given extended ageing in large traditional oak fuders and in bottle before release. This allows the wine to integrate, soften its youthful edges and develop early layers of complexity.

Under the guidance of Ernst Loosen, one of Germany’s most influential winemakers, the fruit is handpicked at optimal ripeness, gently pressed and fermented naturally in neutral oak. Extended lees contact lends texture and savoury depth while preserving the vineyard’s hallmark precision.

In the glass, it shines pale gold, offering aromas of white peach, lemon oil, green apple skin, jasmine and crushed slate, with a whisper of smoky herbs. The palate is taut and focused, with crystalline acidity driving layers of citrus, orchard fruit and flinty minerality. There’s a palpable tension between richness and restraint, leading to a long, saline finish that seems to echo the cool slate soils.

While already captivating, this is a Riesling built for the cellar. Over the next 15 to 25 years it will gain honeyed, nutty and waxy complexity while retaining its vivid core.

Perfect alongside grilled turbot, lobster with herb butter or roast guinea fowl with preserved lemon.