2018 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter Riesling Grosses Gewächs Reserve, Mosel

A stunningly vital and lively wine for six years old, this has a terrific sage freshness with notes of dried strawberries and curry. Wonderful vitality for this extremely warm vintage. The textural complexity and delicacy are off the scale. Very long and fresh finish that is so uplifting. Drink or hold

97 points jamessuckling.com

Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter Riesling Grosses Gewächs Reserve is an extraordinary dry Riesling from one of the Mosel’s most distinctive grand cru vineyards. The Würzgarten, or “spice garden,” sits on impossibly steep slopes above the village of Ürzig, with iron-rich red slate soils that are unique in the Mosel. This terroir imparts an unmistakable exotic spice and ripe stone fruit character to the wines, making it one of the most recognisable vineyard sites in Germany.

The “Unterst Pichter” designation refers to a historic sub-parcel within the vineyard, an old-vine block that has been revered for generations for producing Riesling of exceptional intensity and complexity. The vines are ungrafted and deeply rooted in the fractured slate, drawing up a profound mineral signature. Ernst Loosen, one of the Mosel’s most respected winemakers, handles this fruit with a philosophy that honours both tradition and site expression.

For the Grosses Gewächs Reserve, fermentation is carried out with natural yeasts in large, neutral oak fuders, followed by extended maturation on the full lees. The Reserve label indicates a significantly longer ageing period before release, adding texture, aromatic depth and integration to the wine’s naturally powerful structure.

In the glass, it is pale gold with aromas of ripe yellow peach, mango skin, mandarin zest, saffron and wet slate, accented by hints of smoky herbs and exotic spice. The palate is concentrated yet incredibly precise, with mouthwatering acidity cutting through layers of ripe stone fruit, citrus oil and crushed minerals. There is a gentle phenolic grip and a savoury, almost saline edge on the very long finish.

This is a wine built to age for decades. While thrilling to drink now with rich seafood or white meat in cream sauces, it will develop breathtaking complexity over 15 to 25 years, gaining notes of honey, chamomile and dried spice while retaining its vibrant core.